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| Introduction: How to Use This Book | |
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| Appliqu�s | |
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| Transferring Designs | |
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| Preparing Appliqu�s | |
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| Positioning Appliqu�s | |
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| Sewing Appliqu�s by Hand | |
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| Sewing Appliqu�s by Machine | |
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| Fusing Appliqu�s | |
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| Fabric Bands | |
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| Bands for Garment Openings | |
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| Neck Bands | |
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| Basting | |
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| Basting Guidelines | |
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| Hand Basting | |
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| Machine Basting | |
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| Other Basting Methods | |
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| Fabric Belts, Buckles & Belt Carriers | |
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| Making Fabric Belts/Sashes | |
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| Attaching Belt Buckles to Fabric Belts | |
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| Making Fabric Belt Carriers/Belt Loops | |
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| Attaching Fabric Belt Carriers | |
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| Making and Attaching Thread Belt Carriers | |
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| Bias Binding | |
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| Making Bias Binding | |
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| Applying Double or French Binding-Hand Finished | |
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| Applying Single Binding-Hand Finished | |
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| Applying Single Binding-Machine Finished | |
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| Special Binding Techniques | |
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| Buttonholes & Buttons | |
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| Buttonhole Preparation | |
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| Machine-Worked Buttonholes | |
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| Hand-Worked Buttonholes | |
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| Two-Piece Bound Buttonhole | |
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| Button Size and Placement Guidelines | |
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| Attaching Buttons | |
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| Reinforcing Buttons | |
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| Casings | |
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| Drawstring Openings | |
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| Applied Casings | |
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| Casing in a Seam Allowance | |
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| Self-Fabric Casing | |
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| Collars | |
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| Rolled Collars: Band, Notched, and Shawl | |
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| Flat Collars | |
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| Stand Collars | |
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| Cuffs | |
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| Preparing the Lower Edge | |
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| Band Cuff with Opening | |
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| Barrel Cuff | |
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| Turned-Back Cuff | |
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| Rib Knit Cuff | |
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| Cuff Link Buttons | |
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| Cutting Basics | |
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| Darts | |
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| Sewing All Darts | |
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| Trimming and Clipping Darts | |
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| Pressing Darts | |
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| Drawstrings | |
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| With Elastic | |
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| Edge & Seam Finishes | |
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| Knit Fabric Edge Finishes | |
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| Woven Fabric Edge Finishes | |
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| Elastic Applications | |
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| Applying Elastic at an Edge | |
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| Applying Elastic Away from an Edge | |
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| Embroidery by Hand | |
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| Threads | |
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| Embroidery Needles | |
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| Embroidery Hoops | |
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| Starting, Ending and Finishing | |
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| Embroidery Stitches | |
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| Eyelet Applications | |
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| Hand-Worked Eyelets | |
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| Metal Eyelets | |
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| Facings | |
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| Armhole Facings | |
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| Neckline Facings | |
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| Neck and Armhole Facings | |
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| Front Facings | |
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| Waistline Facings | |
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| Godets | |
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| In a Seam | |
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| In a Slash | |
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| Gussets | |
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| Hand Sewing | |
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| Hand Sewing Guidelines | |
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| Beginning Hand Stitching Knot | |
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| Ending Hand Stitching | |
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| Hand Sewing Stitches | |
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| Hems | |
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| Measuring Hems | |
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| Interfacing Hems | |
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| Standard 1-inch to 3-inch (1.5cm to 7.5cm) Hems | |
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| Narrow Hems | |
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| Hem Variations | |
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| Hooks & Eyes | |
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| Attaching Hooks and Eyes to Edges That Meet | |
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| Attaching Hooks and Eyes to Edges That Overlap | |
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| Interfacing | |
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| Choosing Interfacing | |
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| Where to Interface | |
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| Working with Fusible Interfacing | |
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| Working with Sew-In Interfacing | |
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| Layouts | |
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| Layouts: Fabric Preparation | |
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| Understanding Layout Options and Terms | |
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| Preparing and Laying Out the Pattern | |
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| Lining | |
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| Lining a Back Pleat | |
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| Lining a Back Vent | |
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| Inserting Jacket Lining by Hand | |
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| Inserting Jacket Lining by Machine | |
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| Loops | |
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| Making Tubing for Fabric Loops | |
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| Attaching Loops | |
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| Frogs | |
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| Dress Hanger Loops | |
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| Thread Loops | |
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| Machine Stitching | |
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| Basic Machine Stitches | |
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| Specialty Machine Stitches | |
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| Marking | |
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| Marking with Clips into the Seam Allowance | |
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| Pin Marking | |
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| Thread Marking | |
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| Marking with Disappearing Marking Pen/Tailor's Chalk/Chalk Pencil | |
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| Marking with Dressmaker's Carbon Paper and Tracing Wheel | |
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| Overlock Sewing | |
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| Basic Functional Overlock Stitches | |
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| Overlock Seams and Seam Finishing | |
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| Handling Corners and Curves with Overlock | |
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| Overlock Hems | |
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| Attaching Elastic and Trim with Overlock | |
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| Making Overlock Loops and Straps | |
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| Pleats | |
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| Marking Pleats | |
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| Pressing Pleats | |
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| Knife/Straight Pleats | |
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| Box Pleats | |
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| Inverted Pleats | |
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| Pockets | |
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| Patch Pockets | |
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| Mock Flap Pockets | |
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| Side Seam Pockets | |
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| Side-Front Slanted Pockets | |
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| Welt Pockets | |
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| Mock Welt Pockets | |
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| Pressing Guidelines | |
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| Pressing Tools | |
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| How to Press | |
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| Pressing Special Fabrics | |
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| Quilting | |
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| Quilting Basics | |
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| Machine Quilting | |
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| Corded Quilting | |
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| Trapunto Quilting | |
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| Ruffles | |
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| Straight Ruffle, Double Layer | |
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| Straight Ruffle, Single Layer | |
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| Circular Ruffle, Double Layer | |
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| Circular Ruffle, Single Layer | |
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| Seam Construction | |
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| Preparing to Stitch | |
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| Stitching a Seam | |
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| Keeping Seams Flat | |
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| Types of Seams | |
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| Special Seam Situations | |
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| Decorative Seams | |
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| Self-Finished (Enclosed) Seams | |
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| Shoulder Pads | |
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| Types of Shoulder Pads | |
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| Covering Shoulder Pads | |
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| Attaching Shoulder Pads | |
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| Sleeves | |
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| Set-In Sleeves | |
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| Kimono Sleeve | |
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| Raglan Sleeves | |
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| Smocking | |
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| Fabrics and Notions | |
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| Adding a Smocked Insert | |
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| Marking | |
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| Pre-Gathering | |
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| Smocking Stitches | |
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| Snaps | |
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| Sew-On Snaps | |
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| Gripper Snaps | |
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| Tucks | |
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| Marking and Basting | |
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| Stitching Tucks | |
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| Pressing Tucks | |
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| Types of Tucks | |
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| Underlining | |
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| Cutting | |
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| Marking and Basting | |
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| Stitching Underlining Seams | |
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| Darts | |
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| Velcro�/Hook-and-Loop Tape | |
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| Sew-On Velcro | |
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| Iron-On Velcro | |
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| Vents | |
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| Lined Jackets, Skirts, or Dresses | |
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| Unlined Jackets, Skirts, or Dresses | |
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| Vents for Sleeves | |
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| Waistbands | |
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| Elasticized Waistbands | |
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| One-Piece, Non-Elastic Waistbands | |
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| Two-Piece, Non-Elastic Waistband (Faced) | |
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| Yokes | |
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| Back/Shoulder Yokes | |
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| Zippers | |
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| Guidelines | |
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| Applications: Centered, Lapped, Mock Fly and Separating | |
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| Useful Information | |
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| Index | |