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| List of Maps | |
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| What's New in Tuscany and Umbria | |
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| The Best of Tuscany and Umbria | |
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| The Best Tuscan and Umbrian Experiences | |
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| The Best Hill Towns | |
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| The Best Festivals | |
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| The Greatest Artistic Masterpieces | |
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| The Best Offbeat Sights and Experiences | |
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| The Best Wines and Vineyards | |
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| The Best Museums | |
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| The Best Etruscan Sights | |
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| The Best Luxury Hotels | |
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| The Best Moderately Priced Hotels | |
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| Florence's Best Rooms with a View | |
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| The Best Countryside Retreats | |
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| The Best Restaurants in Town | |
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| The Best Trattorie in Town | |
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| The Best Countryside Trattorie | |
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| Planning Your Trip to Tuscany and Umbria | |
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| The Regions in Brief | |
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| Visitor Information | |
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| Entry Requirements and Customs | |
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| Money | |
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| The Lira, the U.S. Dollar and the U.K. Pound | |
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| What Things Cost in Florence | |
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| When to Go | |
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| Tuscany and Umbria Calendar of Events | |
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| Cooking Schools and Special-Interest Vacations | |
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| Health and Insurance | |
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| Tips for Travelers with Special Needs | |
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| A Note for Families and Seniors | |
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| Getting There | |
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| Countries Honoring Train Passes | |
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| Getting Around | |
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| Tips on Accommodations, Villa Rentals and Farm Stays | |
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| Tips on Dining | |
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| Getting Your VAT Refund | |
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| Fast Facts: Tuscany and Umbria | |
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| Settling into Florence: Birthplace of the Renaissance | |
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| Essentials | |
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| The Red and the Black | |
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| Neighborhoods in Brief | |
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| Fast Facts: Florence | |
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| Networks and Resources | |
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| Where to Stay | |
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| Family-Friendly Hotels | |
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| Where to Dine | |
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| Family-Friendly Restaurants | |
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| A Big Step Above Ice Cream: Florentine Gelato | |
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| Exploring Florence | |
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| Seeing the Sights | |
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| A Man and His Dome | |
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| Around Piazza della Signoria | |
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| Rising from the Blast | |
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| The Master's Doodles | |
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| Michelangelo: The Making of a Renaissance Master | |
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| Shopping | |
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| Florence After Dark | |
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| Cafe Culture | |
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| A Side Trip to Fiesole: A Perfect Summer Escape | |
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| A Countryside Stroll in the City | |
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| The Chianti, Siena and the Western Hill Towns | |
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| Wine Tasting in the Chianti | |
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| Siena: A Taste of the Tuscan Middle Ages | |
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| Siena's Cumulative Tickets | |
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| San Gimignano: The Medieval Manhattan | |
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| Volterra: City of Alabaster | |
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| In Search of Alabaster | |
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| The Encroaching Edge of Town | |
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| Massa Marittima: An Overlooked Gem | |
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| Lucca and Northwestern Tuscany | |
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| Prato and the Virgin Mary's Girdle | |
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| Relic Hunting and Prato's Most Holy Fashion Accessory | |
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| Italy's Best Biscotti and Tuscany's Top Theater | |
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| Pistoia: Where Romanesque Meets Renaissance | |
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| Montecatini Terme and Monsummano Terme: Spas and Saunas | |
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| Lucca and Its Mighty Medieval Walls | |
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| Walking the Walls | |
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| North of Lucca--The Garfagnana and the Lunigiana | |
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| Pisa, Tuscany's Coast and the Maremma | |
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| Pisa and Its Tipsy Tower | |
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| Campo dei Miracoli Admissions | |
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| Pisa's Perpendicularly Challenged Tower | |
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| Pisa's Sunken Archaeological Treasure | |
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| Livorno: A Busy Port City with Great Seafood | |
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| Elba: Tuscany's Island Resort | |
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| The Maremma: Tuscany's Deep South | |
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| Southern Tuscany | |
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| Montalcino: Home of the Mighty Brunello | |
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| Sampling the Vino | |
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| Pienza: The Ideal Renaissance City | |
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| Montepulciano and Its Noble Wine | |
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| Underground Tunnels and Noble Wine | |
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| Chiusi: In the Footsteps of the Etruscans | |
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| A Famous Spa Town En Route to Chiusi | |
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| Arezzo and Northeastern Tuscany | |
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| Arezzo: Where Life Is Beautiful | |
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| Sansepolcro: Artistic Treasures Off the Beaten Path | |
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| Cortona: "City of Art" | |
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| The Western Valdichiana: Exploring the Chiana Valley | |
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| Perugia, Assisi and Northern Umbria | |
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| Perugia: Capital of Umbria and Quaint Hill Town | |
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| Perugia's Medieval Pompeii | |
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| Assisi: An Artistic Pilgrimage | |
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| The Genius of Giotto | |
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| Gubbio: Town of Festivals | |
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| Lunacy and Death, Eugubian Style | |
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| Spoleto and Southern Umbria | |
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| Spoleto and the Spoleto Festival | |
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| Todi: A Taste of the Middle Ages | |
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| Mad Monks and Christmas Carols: Fra Jacopone | |
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| Orvieto: Etruscan Ruins and Fine White Wine | |
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| Orvieto's Liquid Gold | |
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| Tunnels in the Tufa | |
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| Tuscany and Umbria in Depth | |
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| A Look at the Past | |
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| Dateline | |
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| Art and Architecture 101 | |
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| A Taste of Tuscany and Umbria | |
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| Recommended Books and Films | |
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| Appendix B | |
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| Molto Italiano: A Basic Italian Vocabulary | |
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| From Antipasti to Zuppa Inglese: Italian Menu Terms | |
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| Knowing Your Apse from Your Ambone: A Glossary of Architectural and Art Terms | |
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| Index | |