Ice and Mixed Climbing Modern Technique

Name: Ice and Mixed Climbing Modern Technique
Price: 15.65 USD
Availability: InStock
ISBN: 9780898867695

ISBN-10: 089886769X

ISBN-13: 9780898867695

Edition: 2003

Authors: Will Gadd, Roger Chayer

List price: $22.95

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Book details

List price: $22.95
Copyright year: 2003
Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 192
Size: 7.00" wide x 8.50" long x 0.50" tall
Weight: 1.144
Language: English

Will Gadd won every major ice competition in the world in 1998 and 1999, as well as the 2000 Ice World Cup. A resident of Canmore, Alberta, he has written for Climbing and Rock & Ice, among other publications.

Roger Chayer's photos have appeared in Rock & Ice, Gripped, Equinox, and the Alpine Club of Canada Journal. He lives in Calgary, Alberta.



Acknowledgments


Preface



Gear


Ice Tools


Boots


Shopping for Ice Gear


Pick Maintenance



Dress and Eat for Success


Technical Clothing


Surviving Long Belays


Nutrition for Cold Climbing


Climb Ice!




Basic Ice Climbing


Ice Formation: Understanding the Medium


Basic Crampon Skills


Basic Ice Movement


Ice Grades


Big Routes: Modern Tactics for Speed and Warmth



Anchors, Belaying, and Leading


Belaying


Leading Ice


Leading the Pitch


Barry Blanchard Whips Ice Climbing




Descending


Descending the Pitch


Rap Anchors


Cluster Luck




Advanced Ice Techniques


Techniques for Steep Ice Climbing


Thin Ice


Climbing Early Season Ice


Free-hanging and Freestanding Ice


Suffer Machine Fall




Leading and Protecting Mixed Routes


Protection


Creative Sling Use


Rope Management


Bolts



Mixed Climbing


Ethics


Mixed Technique


Drytooling


Footwork


Movement Tricks


Getting on Icicles


Techniques for Popular Mixed Routes



Moving in the Mountains in Winter


Vehicles


Snowshoes and Skis



Systems for Survival


Avalanches


Bivying


Accidents and Rescues


A Lesson




Training for Winter Climbing


Periodization


Specific Adaptation to Imposed Demand


Effective Training


Training Schedules


Specific Exercises


The Golden Rule