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Ice and Mixed Climbing Modern Technique

ISBN-10: 089886769X

ISBN-13: 9780898867695

Edition: 2003

Authors: Will Gadd, Roger Chayer

List price: $22.95
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Book details

List price: $22.95
Copyright year: 2003
Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 192
Size: 7.00" wide x 8.50" long x 0.50" tall
Weight: 1.144
Language: English

Will Gadd won every major ice competition in the world in 1998 and 1999, as well as the 2000 Ice World Cup. A resident of Canmore, Alberta, he has written for Climbing and Rock & Ice, among other publications.

Roger Chayer's photos have appeared in Rock & Ice, Gripped, Equinox, and the Alpine Club of Canada Journal. He lives in Calgary, Alberta.

Acknowledgments
Preface
Gear
Ice Tools
Boots
Shopping for Ice Gear
Pick Maintenance
Dress and Eat for Success
Technical Clothing
Surviving Long Belays
Nutrition for Cold Climbing
Climb Ice!
Basic Ice Climbing
Ice Formation: Understanding the Medium
Basic Crampon Skills
Basic Ice Movement
Ice Grades
Big Routes: Modern Tactics for Speed and Warmth
Anchors, Belaying, and Leading
Belaying
Leading Ice
Leading the Pitch
Barry Blanchard Whips Ice Climbing
Descending
Descending the Pitch
Rap Anchors
Cluster Luck
Advanced Ice Techniques
Techniques for Steep Ice Climbing
Thin Ice
Climbing Early Season Ice
Free-hanging and Freestanding Ice
Suffer Machine Fall
Leading and Protecting Mixed Routes
Protection
Creative Sling Use
Rope Management
Bolts
Mixed Climbing
Ethics
Mixed Technique
Drytooling
Footwork
Movement Tricks
Getting on Icicles
Techniques for Popular Mixed Routes
Moving in the Mountains in Winter
Vehicles
Snowshoes and Skis
Systems for Survival
Avalanches
Bivying
Accidents and Rescues
A Lesson
Training for Winter Climbing
Periodization
Specific Adaptation to Imposed Demand
Effective Training
Training Schedules
Specific Exercises
The Golden Rule