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Acknowledgments | |
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Prologue | |
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The Sleeping Guardian of the Islamic Books | |
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Notes on a Pilgrimage: Cyrus the Great | |
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Currencies and Passports aboard Iran Air Flight 327 to Shiraz | |
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What Is the Name of This Street? | |
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Persepolis: Celebrations and Revolutions | |
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The Zoroastrian Stamp | |
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Colonial Markings | |
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Ancient History and Green Cards | |
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Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Cyrus the Great | |
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Cities: Tehran, Shiraz, Persepolis, Pasargad | |
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The Imam and the Poet: An Introduction | |
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Mr. Ghassemi's Funeral | |
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Islam and the Iranian Accommodation | |
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Mohammad's Melon Truck Tour | |
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The Sunni/Shi'a Split | |
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Mourning and Miracles | |
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Pilgrimage: Ferdowsi, the Poet | |
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Imam Ali or Rostam? | |
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"Global Arrogance" and Green Cards at the Nader Shah Museum | |
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Pilgrimage: Imam Reza Tomb | |
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Cities: Mashhad, Tous | |
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The Politics of Personal Appearance | |
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A "Blasphemous" Play | |
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Dance Party | |
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Campus Politics | |
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Hard-Liners and Green Cards | |
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Elites and Masses | |
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The Road to Neishapour | |
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Notes on a Pilgrimage: Omar Khayyam, the Poet | |
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The Spice Men of the Bazaar | |
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The Pilgrimage: Omar Khayyam Tomb | |
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Mohsen, the Student, and Hassan, the War Veteran | |
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Martyrs' Cemetery | |
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Cities: Tehran, Neishapour | |
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The Silenced Satirist | |
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Red Lines | |
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Narges and the Censoring of Milan Kundera | |
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Why a Fourteenth-Century Poet Speaks So Eloquently to Contemporary Iranians | |
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Pilgrimage: The Tomb of Hafez, the Poet | |
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Mrs. Teimouri's Wedding | |
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The Case of Akbar Ganji: Journalist, Prodemocracy Advocate, Prisoner | |
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Cities: Tehran, Shiraz | |
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Islam and Democracy | |
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The Shi'atization of Iran | |
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Sensual Isfahan | |
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The Bazaar and the Mosque | |
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Pilgrimage: Mullah Mohammad Bagher Majlesi and the Rise of the Shi'a Cleric | |
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Mr. Mohseni, the Young Cleric | |
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Cities: Tehran, Isfahan | |
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Winds of Reform | |
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A Murder in Kashan | |
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Tabriz Student Protests, 1999 | |
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The Case of Ahmad Batebi | |
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Iran's Fight for a Constitution: 1906-11 | |
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An American Constitutionalist in Tabriz | |
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"The Strangling of Persia": A Constitutional Ending | |
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The Parliament of the Islamic Republic of Iran | |
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Cities: Tehran, Kashan, Tabriz | |
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My Tehran | |
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"The International Congress on the Elucidation of the Islamic Revolution and the Thoughts of Imam Khomeini" | |
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"A Jug of Love" | |
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Mr. Hashemi and the Pro-Khomeini "Oppressed" | |
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Reza Shah: Forgotten Shrine, Remembered King | |
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The Khomeini Rise | |
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Pilgrimage: The Shrine of Ayatollah Khomeini | |
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Cities: Tehran, Rey | |
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My Friend Hossein | |
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Hossein's War | |
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Journey to Ahvaz | |
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War Miracles | |
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Pilgrimage: War Martyrs' Shrine | |
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Haji Agha Abu Torabi and the Prisoners of War | |
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Cities: Tehran, Ahvaz, Abadan, Khorramshahr, Shalamcheh | |
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Storming the Gates with the Software Engineers | |
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Children of the Revolution | |
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Visas and Billboards | |
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"In Damascus, I Can Breathe" | |
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The Canadian Embassy Visa Pilgrimage | |
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Farewell, Iran | |
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Cities: Tehran, Damascus (Syria) | |
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On Thugs and Freedom | |
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Anatomy of a Crackdown | |
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Notes on a Pilgrimage: Mohammad Mossadeq, a CIA Coup, and Democracy Battered | |
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Mr. M. and the Nationalist "Por-rooh" Technocrats | |
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A Qom Detour | |
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Afternoon with a Hostage Taker | |
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Pilgrimage: The Shrine of Mohammad Mossadeq | |
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Soccer and the Iranian Predicament | |
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Cities: Tehran, Qom, Ahmadabad | |
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Epilogue: The June 2005 Presidential Election | |