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Sport Climbing From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success

ISBN-10: 1594852707
ISBN-13: 9781594852701
Edition: 2009
Authors: Andrew Bisharat
List price: $21.95
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Description: Sport climbers often set out a route that tests their physical limits in hopes of an eventual completion, regardless of the number of attempts. Succeeding requires an entire skill set of specialized belaying and climbing techniques that aren¿t found  More...

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Book details

List price: $21.95
Copyright year: 2009
Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 256
Size: 7.00" wide x 9.00" long x 0.75" tall
Weight: 0.990
Language: English

Sport climbers often set out a route that tests their physical limits in hopes of an eventual completion, regardless of the number of attempts. Succeeding requires an entire skill set of specialized belaying and climbing techniques that aren¿t found in other climbing disciplines¿but are detailed here in this accessible new guide. Targeting varying abilities, Sport Climbing teaches climbers how to rehearse moves and train for specific routes, how to get through the pump, how to fight until the end of a pitch, how to stay composed when tired, and how to best use their bodies to climb efficiently and expertly. Whether inspiring new climbers to learn the nuances of scaling vertical terrain, or delving into a deeper, more conceptual understanding of how to go about projecting a route, Andrew Bisharat brings confidence and a level of practicality to the sport. He showcases how skills specific to redpointing transfer over to traditional climbing, making this a must-have book for any climber. Featuring anecdotes from famous climbers such as Tommy Caldwell, Katie Brown, Boone Speed, Josh Wharton, and Alex Honnold, the author brings a modern voice to a complex sport.

Acknowledgments
Foreword
Introduction
Ethics, Style, and the Emergence of Sport Climbing
The Beast Came from Trad
Sport Climbing Is Neither!?
Bolt Wars
Wild Ethics
The Next Generation
Free Yourself With Great Climbing Technique
What Is "Good" Technique?
Footwork
Handholds
Body Positions and Movement
Gear You Need: How to Choose It, Use it, and Keep It Safe
Shoes
Harness
Ropes
Quickdraws
Belay Devices
Helmet
Chalkbag and Chalk
Kneepads
Stick Clip
Useful Miscellaneous Items
Clothing
Setting Up Your Rig
Starting Out: Tying In, Top-roping, and Cleaning an Anchor
How It Works
Kiss
The Perfect Knot: How to Tie In
How to Top-rope
Getting Lowered
Types of Anchors
How to Go In Direct
Cleaning an Anchor
Taking the Sharp End: Leading a Sport Climb
Anatomy of a Sport Climb
The Real Deal: Out of the Gym and Out to the Crag
The Big Leagues: From Bouldering to Sport Climbing
A New Direction: Going from Trad to Sport
Moving from Top-roping to Leading
Commanding Language: How to Talk to Your Belayer
The Leading Primer
Racking Quickdraws on Your Harness
Clipping Quickdraws to Bolts
Clipping the Rope to the Quickdraw
ABC's of the Z-clip
Managing the Rope as You Lead
Clipping Quickdraws to the Anchor
The Art of Falling
Taking the Whipper 101
When It's Not Okay to Fall
Mastering the Failing Mentality
Regaining Your High Point After a Fall
Advanced Ropework Techniques for Leading and Cleaning
Stick Clipping
On Route: Clipping Up
Cleaning a Route: Retrieving Quickdraws
So, Are You Ready to Lead?
Great Belaying
Top-rope vs. Lead Belay
Loading an ATC
Loading a Grigri
Top-rope Belaying with an ATC or Grigri
Lead Belaying with an ATC
Lead Belaying with a Grigri
Situational Techniques for Great Lead Belaying
Giving a Soft Catch
Onsighting: Strategies for Success
Anatomy of an Onsight
Sending Sight-Unseen
Flashing
The Elements of Style
Redpointing: Techniques for Sending
The Right Temperament
Always Learn and Make Progress
Break It Down
Early Attempts
Technique
Going In Direct
Making Links
"Work" the Rests
Highs and Lows
The One Hang
Warming Up for the Redpoint
More Tips for Redpointing Success
A Day at the Crags
Warm-ups
Crag Etiquette: The Queue and Working the Warm-up
What Kind of Day Is It Going to Be?
Warming Down
How to Choose a Project
Motivation
Crag Ethics
Where to Go: The Best Sport-Climbing Areas and Crags
United States
International Flavor
Glossary
Rating Comparison Chart for Sport Climbing
Index

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