Rock Climbing Anchors A Comprehensive Guide

ISBN-10: 1594850062
ISBN-13: 9781594850066
Edition: 2006
Authors: Craig Luebben
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Description: Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide Craig Luebben, who  More...

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Book details

List price: $19.95
Copyright year: 2006
Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
Publication date: 2/1/2007
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 256
Size: 6.75" wide x 8.50" long x 0.50" tall
Weight: 1.364
Language: English

Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he has taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self- rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors. This entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide.

Craig Luebbenwas an AMGA Rock Guide Instructor and served on the Board of Directors for six years. He was the author or coauthor of nine books on climbing and wrote numerous gear reviews and travel articles forClimbingandRock & Icemagazines. His FalconGuidesAdvanced Rock Climbing, coauthored with John Long, won the Mountain Exposition Award at the 1997 Banff Mountain Book Festival. Craig died in 2009 while leading a pitch on Mount Torment in North Cascades National Park.   Clyde Solesis a freelance writer and photographer with four decades of climbing experience. The former senior editor ofRock & Icemagazine, he has authored or coauthored nine outdoor how-to books, including two other knots books. He lives in Boulder, Colorado.

Acknowledgments
Introduction
Anchor Basics
Top-rope anchors
Rappel anchors
Sport climbing anchors
Belay anchors
Lead protection
Aid and big wall climbing
Clean climbing
Forces on climbing anchors
How many anchors?
How important is equalization?
Pre-equalized anchors
Self-equalizing anchors
V-angle
Pulley effect
Multidirectional anchors
Climber attachment to the anchors
Belaying the second
Belaying the leader
Rock type and rock quality
Natural and Fixed Anchors
Natural anchors
Fixed anchors
Chocks
Evolution of climbing chocks
Wired nuts
Hexagonal chocks
Tri-cams
Sliding nuts
Expandable tubes
Size and strength
Cams
Cam evolution
Setting and removing cams
Good and bad cam placements
Cam testing
Cam design
Top-rope and Rappel Anchors
Slingshot top rope
Top belay
Rappel anchors
Sport Climbing Anchors
Clipping bolts
Rigging top anchors for lowering and top-roping
Multipitch belay anchors
Traditional Belay Anchors
Belay station
Belay rigging methods
Cordelette craft
Minimalist rigging with slings
Rigging with the climbing rope
Trad Leading
Protecting the climb
Climbing Forces
Newton's laws of motion
Potential and kinetic energy
Impact force
Impulse and momentum
Strength of climbing gear
Webbing, Cord, and Carabiners
Knots
Equations
Glossary
Resources
Index

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