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Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes

ISBN-10: 0750642815
ISBN-13: 9780750642811
Edition: 2nd 1999 (Revised)
List price: $65.95
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Description: Completely revised and updated for its second edition, this volume belongs to the Open University series on oceanography. It is designed so that it can be read on its own or studied as part of the Open University third-level course, S330  More...

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Book details

List price: $65.95
Edition: 2nd
Copyright year: 1999
Publisher: Elsevier Science & Technology Books
Publication date: 3/28/2000
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 228
Size: 8.50" wide x 10.25" long x 1.65" tall
Weight: 1.584
Language: English

Completely revised and updated for its second edition, this volume belongs to the Open University series on oceanography. It is designed so that it can be read on its own or studied as part of the Open University third-level course, S330 Oceanography. the book begins by describing the characteristics of waves and tides, and their behaviour in shallow water. After outlining the sources of sediment supply to the oceans, some theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition by currents are considered. After looking at wave action in the littoral zone, the interplay of tidal currents, river flow and wave action in estuaries and deltas are explored. The final chapter provides an overview of shelf processes. This is a vital book for all oceanography undergraduate students worldwide.

About This Volume
About This Series
Waves
What Are Waves?
Types of waves
Wind-generated waves in the ocean
The fully developed sea
Wave height and wave steepness
Surface Wave Theory
Motion of water particles
Wave speed
Wave speed in deep and in shallow water
Assumptions made in surface wave theory
Wave Dispersion and Group Speed
Wave Energy
Propagation of wave energy
Attenuation of wave energy
Swell
Uses of wave energy
Waves Approaching the Shore
Wave refraction
Waves breaking upon the shore
Waves of Unusual Character
Waves and currents
Giant waves
Tsunamis
Seiches
Measurement of Waves
Satellite observations of waves
Summary of Chapter 1
Tides
Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon System
Variations in the lunar-induced tides
Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun System
Interaction of solar and lunar tides
The Dynamic Theory of Tides
Prediction of tides by the harmonic method
Real Tides
Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas
Storm surges
Tides in rivers and estuaries
Tidal power
Summary of Chapter 2
Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments
Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments
The supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans
Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time
Summary of Chapter 3
Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport
Factors Controlling the Movement of Sediment
Frictional forces and the boundary layer
Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments
Sediment Erosion, Transport and Deposition
Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength
The concept of shear velocity
The viscous sublayer
Velocity profiles in the sea
Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sediments
Rates of sediment transport
The Deposition of Sediment
Deposition of the bedload
Deposition of the suspended load
Bed Forms
Summary of Chapter 4
Beaches
The Morphology of Beaches
Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness
Sediment Movement in the Beach Zone
Orbital velocities and bed shear stress
Sediment movement by waves
Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents
Rip currents
Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removal
Summary of Chapter 5
Estuaries
Sediment Distribution in Estuaries
Aggregation of sediment in estuaries
Tidal Channels of Estuaries
The estuarine continuum
Regions of freshwater influence
Sedimentation in estuaries
Estuaries in low latitudes
The dynamic balance of estuaries
Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islands
Summary of Chapter 6
Deltas
Delta Morphology
Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouths
The deltaic continuum
The Effects of Human Activities on Deltas
Summary of Chapter 7
Shelf Seas
Shelf Sea Processes
Coastal and ocean currents
The effects of waves and of bioturbation
Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seas
The Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Break
Summary of Chapter 8
Suggested Further Reading
Answers and Comments to Questions
Acknowledgments
Index

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