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| Introduction | |
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| List of Symbols | |
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| Basic concepts of potential wave theory | |
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| Waves propagating over a horizontal bottom | |
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| Wave energy | |
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| Radiation stresses | |
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| Irregular waves | |
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| Wave boundary layers | |
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| The momentum integral method for the turbulent wave boundary layer | |
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| Detailed modelling of the wave boundary layer | |
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| Streaming | |
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| Energy dissipation in the wave boundary layer | |
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| Bed friction and turbulence in wave-current motion | |
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| Simple considerations on changes in the shape of the velocity profile and increase in bed shear stress | |
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| The integrated momentum method applied to combined wave-current motion | |
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| Refined modelling of the wave-current motion | |
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| Waves in the surf zone | |
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| Wave-breaking | |
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| Modelling of variation of wave height and water level in the surf zone | |
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| Turbulence in the surf zone | |
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| Wave-driven currents | |
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| The longshore current | |
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| Further developments of longshore current models | |
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| Wave-driven currents on a non-uniform beach profile | |
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| Low frequency oscillations | |
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| Current velocity distribution in the surf zone | |
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| Normally incident waves, shear stress distribution | |
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| Normally incident waves, the undertow | |
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| Basic concepts of sediment transport | |
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| Transport modes | |
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| Sediment properties | |
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| Critical bed shear stress | |
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| Bed load transportation | |
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| Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in waves and current over a plan bed | |
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| Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in a steady current | |
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| Distribution of suspended sediment in pure oscillatory flow | |
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| Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in combined wave-current motion | |
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| Vertical distribution of suspended sediment under broken waves | |
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| Current-generated bed waves | |
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| Bed waves in current alone | |
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| Mechanics of dunes in a steady current | |
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| Influence of waves on current-generated sand waves | |
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| Flow resistance due to bed waves in a current | |
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| Wave-generated bed form | |
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| A simple model for vortex ripples | |
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| Distribution of suspended sediment over vortex ripples | |
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| Cross-shore sediment transport and coastal profile development | |
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| Cross-shore sediment transport | |
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| Development of coastal profile | |
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| Longshore sediment transport and coastline development | |
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| Longshore sediment transport | |
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| Modelling of coastline development | |
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| Appendix I. Wave table: Sinusoidal waves | |
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| Appendix II. Derivation of the k-equation | |
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| Appendix III. Additional references | |
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| Subject Index | |