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Mechanics of Coastal Sediment Transport

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ISBN-10: 9810208413

ISBN-13: 9789810208417

Edition: 1992

Authors: J. Fredsoe, R. Deigaard

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This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of noncohesive sediment by waves and currents in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required.The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described. This part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally,…    
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Book details

Copyright year: 1992
Publisher: World Scientific Publishing Co Pte Ltd
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 325
Size: 6.25" wide x 9.00" long x 1.00" tall
Weight: 1.342
Language: English

List of Symbols
Basic concepts of potential wave theory
Waves propagating over a horizontal bottom
Wave energy
Radiation stresses
Irregular waves
Wave boundary layers
The momentum integral method for the turbulent wave boundary layer
Detailed modelling of the wave boundary layer
Energy dissipation in the wave boundary layer
Bed friction and turbulence in wave-current motion
Simple considerations on changes in the shape of the velocity profile and increase in bed shear stress
The integrated momentum method applied to combined wave-current motion
Refined modelling of the wave-current motion
Waves in the surf zone
Modelling of variation of wave height and water level in the surf zone
Turbulence in the surf zone
Wave-driven currents
The longshore current
Further developments of longshore current models
Wave-driven currents on a non-uniform beach profile
Low frequency oscillations
Current velocity distribution in the surf zone
Normally incident waves, shear stress distribution
Normally incident waves, the undertow
Basic concepts of sediment transport
Transport modes
Sediment properties
Critical bed shear stress
Bed load transportation
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in waves and current over a plan bed
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in a steady current
Distribution of suspended sediment in pure oscillatory flow
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment in combined wave-current motion
Vertical distribution of suspended sediment under broken waves
Current-generated bed waves
Bed waves in current alone
Mechanics of dunes in a steady current
Influence of waves on current-generated sand waves
Flow resistance due to bed waves in a current
Wave-generated bed form
A simple model for vortex ripples
Distribution of suspended sediment over vortex ripples
Cross-shore sediment transport and coastal profile development
Cross-shore sediment transport
Development of coastal profile
Longshore sediment transport and coastline development
Longshore sediment transport
Modelling of coastline development
Appendix I. Wave table: Sinusoidal waves
Appendix II. Derivation of the k-equation
Appendix III. Additional references
Subject Index