Foreword | p. xi |
Acknowledgments | p. xiii |
The New Key to Ecuador Green Rating | p. xiv |
Introduction | p. xix |
Ecuador: A Brief History | p. 1 |
The Ecological Picture | p. 11 |
Ecotourism | p. 11 |
Ecosystems | p. 13 |
Environmental Expeditions | p. 24 |
How to Help | p. 31 |
Planning Your Trip | p. 41 |
When to Go | p. 41 |
Coming and Going | p. 46 |
Inoculations | p. 48 |
Transportation | p. 49 |
Packing | p. 51 |
Electricity | p. 55 |
Traveling Expenses | p. 55 |
Accommodations in Ecuador | p. 56 |
Notes for Women Travelers | p. 57 |
Notes for Traveling with Children | p. 58 |
Notes for Senior Travelers | p. 58 |
Notes for Travelers with Disabilities | p. 59 |
Notes for Student Travelers | p. 59 |
Notes for Gay Travelers | p. 59 |
Notes for Traveling with Pets | p. 59 |
Sample Itineraries | p. 60 |
Once You-Arrive | p. 63 |
Language | p. 63 |
Money Matters | p. 64 |
Tipping | p. 66 |
Bargaining | p. 67 |
Local Transportation | p. 67 |
Driving in Ecuador | p. 70 |
Street Addresses | p. 78 |
Business Hours | p. 78 |
Time Zones | p. 79 |
Communications | p. 79 |
Laundry | p. 80 |
Publications | p. 80 |
The Metric System | p. 81 |
Picture Taking | p. 81 |
Health Precautions | p. 82 |
Mosquitoes and Other Pests in Paradise | p. 84 |
Drugs | p. 87 |
Safety and Theft | p. 87 |
Litigation | p. 88 |
Embassies and Consulates | p. 89 |
Native Food and Drink | p. 91 |
Ecuadorian Customs and Traditions | p. 92 |
Indian Markets | p. 94 |
Souvenirs | p. 96 |
The Outdoors | p. 98 |
National Parks, Reserves and Natural Protected Areas | p. 98 |
Camping | p. 99 |
Fishing | p. 99 |
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling | p. 100 |
Birdwatching and Wildlife Viewing | p. 102 |
Photography | p. 103 |
Other Outdoor Sports and Activities | p. 104 |
The Highlands | p. 107 |
Quito Area | p. 110 |
Getting Around Quito | p. 112 |
Lodging | p. 123 |
Restaurants | p. 128 |
Shopping | p. 131 |
Nightlife | p. 133 |
Day Trips South of Quito | p. 135 |
Day Trips East of Quito | p. 140 |
Day Trips West of Quito | p. 143 |
Day Trips North of Quito | p. 145 |
Northern Highlands | p. 152 |
Mindo | p. 152 |
Maquipucuna Biological Reserve | p. 160 |
Calderon to Cayambe | p. 162 |
Otavalo | p. 164 |
Around Otavalo | p. 171 |
Ibarra Area | p. 174 |
Central Highlands | p. 180 |
South from Quito | p. 181 |
Latacunga Area | p. 185 |
Ambato Area | p. 187 |
Chimborazo Area | p. 191 |
Riobamba Area | p. 193 |
Banos Area | p. 197 |
Cuenca Area | p. 203 |
Cuenca | p. 204 |
Day Trips from Cuenca | p. 215 |
Southern Highlands | p. 229 |
Loja | p. 229 |
Pinas and Buenaventura | p. 236 |
Vilcabamba | p. 237 |
Valladolid and Zumba | p. 239 |
Zamora | p. 240 |
Podocarpus National Park | p. 241 |
The Coastal Region | p. 247 |
Guayaquil Area | p. 250 |
A Walking Tour of Guayaquil | p. 252 |
Lodging | p. 257 |
Restaurants | p. 262 |
Shopping | p. 265 |
Nightlife | p. 265 |
Day Trips from Guayaquil | p. 268 |
Central and Southern Coast | p. 280 |
Machala | p. 281 |
South of Machala | p. 287 |
Macara | p. 290 |
Salinas and the Santa Elena Peninsula | p. 291 |
The Coastal Road North | p. 297 |
Machalilla National Park | p. 302 |
Manta | p. 308 |
Portoviejo | p. 311 |
Bahia de Caraquez/San Vicente Canoa | p. 312 |
Northern Coast | p. 319 |
Esmeraldas | p. 320 |
Tonsupa-Atacames Area | p. 326 |
Sua-Same Area | p. 328 |
Rio Cayapas Region | p. 331 |
Santo Domingo de los Colorados | p. 337 |
La Perla Forest Reserv | p. 342 |
Bilsa Biological Reserve and Mache--Chindul Ecological Reserve | p. 344 |
Tinalandia | p. 346 |
Rio Palenque Science Center | p. 348 |
Quevedo | p. 350 |
The Oriente (Amazon Lowlands) | p. 353 |
Northern Oriente (Amazon) | p. 358 |
Cayambe--Coca Ecological Reserve | p. 358 |
Baeza | p. 359 |
South of Baeza | p. 360 |
Baeza--Lago Agrio Road | p. 366 |
Lago Agrio (Nueva Loca) | p. 368 |
Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve | p. 370 |
Coca (Puerto Francisco de Orellana) | p. 378 |
Lower Rio Napo | p. 380 |
Yasuni National Park | p. 390 |
Central and Southern Oriente | p. 394 |
Archidona/Tena | p. 394 |
Misahualli and the Upper Rio Napo | p. 396 |
Puyo | p. 413 |
Macas | p. 414 |
Kapawi | p. 416 |
Miazal | p. 419 |
Road South to Mendez, Limon and Gualaceo | p. 420 |
The Galapagos Islands | p. 425 |
The Galapagos Islands | p. 428 |
Geology | p. 429 |
The Ecological Zones | p. 432 |
Darwin and the Theory of Evolution | p. 433 |
The Natural History of the Islands | p. 435 |
Conservation | p. 437 |
Wildlife Viewing in the Galapagos | p. 438 |
Photography in the Galapagos | p. 440 |
Getting There | p. 441 |
Getting Started | p. 441 |
Practical Information | p. 443 |
The Islands | p. 444 |
Glossary | p. 466 |
Recommended Reading | p. 469 |
Index | p. 474 |
Lodging Index | p. 481 |
Dining Index | p. 484 |
Maps | |
Ecuador and Galapagos Islands | |
Mainland National Parks and Reserves | |
Quito Area | |
Quito | |
Northern Highlands | |
Otavalo | |
Central Highlands | |
Cuenca Area | |
Cuenca | |
Southern Highlands | |
Loja | |
Guayaquil Area | |
Guayaquil | |
Southern Coast | |
Salinas | |
Central Coast | |
Northern Coast | |
Esmeraldas | |
Northern Oriente | |
Tena | |
Central Oriente | |
Southern Oriente | |
Galapagos Islands | |
Puerto Ayora | |
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