Climbing Anchors

Name: Climbing Anchors
Price: 3.53 USD
Availability: InStock
ISBN: 9780762723263

ISBN-10: 0762723262

ISBN-13: 9780762723263

Edition: 2nd 2006 (Revised)

Authors: John Long, Bob Gaines

List price: $15.95

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Description:

This completely revised and updated edition brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems from the first edition of Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors. Most climbers today learn their craft on artificial climbing walls and on sport routes with fixed protection. Their first efforts to lead on trad routes often come as a rude shock--they find that they haven't the skills and training to safeguard the climb or to set up good belays. They may even lack the experience to distinguish good protection from potentially disastrous poor protection. This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber's complete and authoritative source of information on protection, from fundamental…

Book details

List price: $15.95
Edition: 2nd
Copyright year: 2006
Publisher: Globe Pequot Press, The
Publication date: 9/1/2006
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 240
Size: 5.75" wide x 9.00" long x 0.75" tall
Weight: 0.748
Language: English



Acknowledgments


Introduction



Simple Anchors



Natural Anchors


Trees


Shrubs and Bushes


Boulders and Blocks


Horns


Threading Tunnels


Chockstones



Passive Chocks


Tapers


Oppositional Nuts


Offset Tapers


Micro-Tapers (Micro-Nuts)


All the Rest


Removing Passive Chocks



Mechanical Chocks


Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)


Sliding Nuts


Summary



Fixed Gear


Pitons


Bolts


Cold Shuts


Webbing (Sling Material)


Cordage



Fall Forces and the Jesus Nut


Static and Dynamic Forces


Dynamic Forces in a Fall


The Top Piece


Conclusion



Judging the Direction of Pull


Direction of Pull and Anchor Building


Swing


Direction of Pull on Primary Placements



Knots for Anchoring


Ring Bend


Double Fisherman's


Overhand on a Bight and Figure Eight on a Bight


Clove Hitch


Bowline-on-a-Bight


Munter Hitch


Knot Strength



Anchor Systems



SRENE Anchors


Redundancy: The Ongoing Discussion



Belay Anchors


Building Belay Anchors-A Step-by-Step Process


Static and Automatic Equalization Systems


Cordelettes


The Sliding X


The Equalette


Composite Anchors: Cordelette, Sliding X and Equalette


What's Best for Beginners?


Upward Oppositional Anchors


Belay Positions


Anchor Test Results



Other Anchors


Toprope Anchors


Rappel Anchors


Bivouac Anchors


Big Wall Anchors


Review


Conclusion


Appendix


Index


About the Authors