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| About This Volume | |
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| About This Series | |
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| Waves | |
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| What Are Waves? | |
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| Types of waves | |
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| Wind-generated waves in the ocean | |
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| The fully developed sea | |
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| Wave height and wave steepness | |
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| Surface Wave Theory | |
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| Motion of water particles | |
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| Wave speed | |
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| Wave speed in deep and in shallow water | |
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| Assumptions made in surface wave theory | |
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| Wave Dispersion and Group Speed | |
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| Wave Energy | |
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| Propagation of wave energy | |
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| Attenuation of wave energy | |
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| Swell | |
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| Uses of wave energy | |
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| Waves Approaching the Shore | |
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| Wave refraction | |
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| Waves breaking upon the shore | |
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| Waves of Unusual Character | |
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| Waves and currents | |
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| Giant waves | |
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| Tsunamis | |
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| Seiches | |
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| Measurement of Waves | |
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| Satellite observations of waves | |
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| Summary of Chapter 1 | |
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| Tides | |
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| Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Moon System | |
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| Variations in the lunar-induced tides | |
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| Tide-Producing Forces - The Earth-Sun System | |
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| Interaction of solar and lunar tides | |
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| The Dynamic Theory of Tides | |
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| Prediction of tides by the harmonic method | |
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| Real Tides | |
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| Tides and tidal currents in shallow seas | |
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| Storm surges | |
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| Tides in rivers and estuaries | |
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| Tidal power | |
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| Summary of Chapter 2 | |
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| Introduction to Shallow-Water Environments and Their Sediments | |
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| Sediments of Shallow-Water Environments | |
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| The supply of sediments to shelf seas and oceans | |
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| Variations in supply and distribution of sediments over time | |
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| Summary of Chapter 3 | |
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| Principles and Processes of Sediment Transport | |
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| Factors Controlling the Movement of Sediment | |
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| Frictional forces and the boundary layer | |
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| Cohesive and non-cohesive sediments | |
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| Sediment Erosion, Transport and Deposition | |
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| Erosion of cohesive sediments and yield strength | |
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| The concept of shear velocity | |
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| The viscous sublayer | |
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| Velocity profiles in the sea | |
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| Shear velocity and the behaviour of non-cohesive sediments | |
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| Rates of sediment transport | |
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| The Deposition of Sediment | |
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| Deposition of the bedload | |
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| Deposition of the suspended load | |
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| Bed Forms | |
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| Summary of Chapter 4 | |
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| Beaches | |
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| The Morphology of Beaches | |
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| Beach profiles in relation to grain size and wave steepness | |
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| Sediment Movement in the Beach Zone | |
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| Orbital velocities and bed shear stress | |
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| Sediment movement by waves | |
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| Longshore sediment transport by wave-generated currents | |
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| Rip currents | |
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| Dynamic Equilibrium of Sediment Supply and Removal | |
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| Summary of Chapter 5 | |
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| Estuaries | |
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| Sediment Distribution in Estuaries | |
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| Aggregation of sediment in estuaries | |
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| Tidal Channels of Estuaries | |
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| The estuarine continuum | |
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| Regions of freshwater influence | |
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| Sedimentation in estuaries | |
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| Estuaries in low latitudes | |
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| The dynamic balance of estuaries | |
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| Lagoons, Tidal Flats and Barrier Islands | |
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| Summary of Chapter 6 | |
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| Deltas | |
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| Delta Morphology | |
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| Mixing and Sediment Deposition at Distributary Mouths | |
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| The deltaic continuum | |
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| The Effects of Human Activities on Deltas | |
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| Summary of Chapter 7 | |
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| Shelf Seas | |
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| Shelf Sea Processes | |
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| Coastal and ocean currents | |
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| The effects of waves and of bioturbation | |
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| Sediment Transport and Deposition in Some Shelf Seas | |
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| The Shelf Sea System From Shore to Shelf Break | |
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| Summary of Chapter 8 | |
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| Suggested Further Reading | |
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| Answers and Comments to Questions | |
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| Acknowledgments | |
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| Index | |