BILL BUFORD is an author and a staff writer for The nbsp; New Yorker, nbsp;as well as the founding editor of Granta , which he edited fornbsp;sixteen years. His books include Among the Thugs and Heat: An Amateur's Adventures asnbsp;Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany. nbsp;