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| Preface and Acknowledgements | |
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| List of Figures | |
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| List of Tables | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Coastal geomorphology | |
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| Terminology | |
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| Ancient coastlines | |
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| Coastline morphology | |
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| Coastal evolution | |
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| Changing coastlines | |
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| Coastal Processes | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Waves | |
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| Ocean swell | |
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| Storm waves | |
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| Nearshore waves | |
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| Wave refraction | |
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| Wave energy | |
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| Breaking waves | |
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| Rip currents | |
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| Wave currents | |
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| Dominant waves | |
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| High, moderate and low wave energy coasts | |
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| Tides | |
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| Tidal currents | |
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| Macrotidal, mesotidal and microtidal coasts | |
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| Tidal bores | |
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| Tide-dominated coasts | |
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| Storm surges | |
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| Other sea disturbances | |
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| Ocean currents | |
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| Wind-driven currents | |
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| River-mouth currents | |
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| Effects of currents | |
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| Nearshore water circulation | |
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| Wind action | |
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| Other processes | |
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| Modelling coastal processes | |
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| Conclusion | |
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| Land and Sea Level Changes | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Mean sea level | |
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| Causes of sea level change | |
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| Eustatic movements of sea level | |
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| Steric changes | |
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| Sedimentation | |
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| Tectonic movements | |
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| Changes in the ocean basins | |
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| Epeirogenic land movements | |
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| Orogenic movements | |
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| Isostatic movements | |
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| Volcanic movements | |
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| Glacio-eustatic movements | |
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| Human impacts on sea level | |
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| Geoidal changes | |
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| Changes related to ocean currents | |
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| Measuring changes of level | |
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| Correlation and dating of former coastlines | |
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| Emerged coastlines | |
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| Submerged coastlines | |
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| Sea level curves | |
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| Late Quaternary sea level changes | |
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| Modern sea level changes | |
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| Tide gauge records | |
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| Geodetic surveys | |
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| Biological indicators | |
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| Recent changes of land and sea level | |
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| Future sea level changes | |
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| Cliffs and Rocky Shores | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Cliff morphology | |
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| Profiles of cliffs and bluffs | |
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| Slope-over-wall profiles | |
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| Humid tropical bluffs | |
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| Ice cliffs | |
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| Cliff dissection | |
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| Caves | |
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| Blowholes | |
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| Gorges | |
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| Natural arches | |
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| Stacks | |
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| Hanging valleys and coastal waterfalls | |
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| Hinterland topography | |
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| Outlines in plan of cliffed coastlines | |
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| Coastal landslides | |
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| Cliff recession | |
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| Rates of cliff recession | |
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| Shore platforms | |
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| Processes on rocky shores | |
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| Abrasion | |
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| Weathering | |
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| Solution | |
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| Bioerosion | |
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| Frost shattering | |
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| Induration | |
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| Seaward-sloping shore platforms | |
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| Structural shore platforms | |
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| High tide shore platforms | |
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| Low tide shore platforms | |
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| Rocky and bouldery shores | |
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| Strandflats | |
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| Plunging cliffs | |
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| Beaches | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Beach sediments | |
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| Evolution of beaches | |
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| Provenance of beach sediments | |
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| Beaches supplied with fluvial sediment | |
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| Beaches supplied from eroding cliffs and foreshores | |
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| Beaches supplied with sediment from the sea floor | |
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| Shelly and calcareous beaches | |
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| Beaches supplied with wind-blown sand | |
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| Beaches made or modified by human activities | |
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| Beaches of mixed origin | |
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| Relict beaches | |
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| Weathering of beach material | |
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| Beach rock | |
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| Nearshore processes | |
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| Beach morphology | |
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| Beach outlines in plan | |
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| Equilibrium beach plans | |
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| Beach outlines in profile | |
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| Cut and fill | |
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| Sweep zone | |
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| Beach gradient and sediment size | |
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| Upper and lower beach | |
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| Beach stratification | |
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| Beach berms | |
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| Beach cusps | |
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| Wind action on beaches | |
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| Downwashing | |
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| Response to tidal oscillations | |
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| Equilibrium beach profiles | |
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| Eroding and prograding beach profiles | |
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| Beach morphodynamics and beach states | |
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| Use of models | |
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| Beach compartments | |
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| Beach budgets | |
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| Tracing beach sediment flow | |
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| Lateral grading | |
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| Prograding beaches | |
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| Beach ridges | |
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| Cheniers | |
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| Beach lobes | |
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| Beach erosion | |
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| Submergence and increased wave attack | |
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| Diminution of fluvial sediment supply | |
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| Reduction in sediment supply from cliffs | |
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| Reduction of sand supply from inland dunes | |
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| Diminution of sediment supply from the sea floor | |
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| Extraction of sand and shingle from the beach | |
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| Increased wave energy | |
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| Interception of longshore drift | |
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| A change in the angle of incidence of waves | |
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| Intensification of obliquely-incident wave attack | |
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| Increased losses of beach sediment to the backshore | |
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| Increased storminess | |
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| Attrition of beach material | |
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| Erosion due to beach weathering | |
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| Erosion because of increased scour by wave reflection | |
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| Erosion accompanying migration of beach lobes | |
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| Erosion due to a rise in the beach water table | |
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| Erosion due to removal of beach material by runoff | |
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| Erosion because of diminished tide range | |
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| Erosion by driftwood | |
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| Erosion following removal of a sea ice fringe | |
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| The multiple causes of beach erosion | |
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| Effects of artificial structures on beaches | |
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| Beach nourishment | |
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| Spits and Barriers | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Spits | |
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| Paired spits | |
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| Trailing and flying spits | |
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| Tombolos | |
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| Cuspate spits | |
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| Cuspate forelands | |
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| Coastal barriers and barrier islands | |
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| Coastal Dunes | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Foredunes | |
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| Backshore cliffing of dunes | |
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| Parallel dunes | |
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| Blowouts and parabolic dunes | |
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| Transgressive dunes | |
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| Cliff-top dunes | |
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| Dunes on shingle | |
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| Rates of dune movement | |
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| Dune calcarenite | |
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| Machair | |
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| Coastal dunes in the humid tropics | |
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| Older and newer dunes | |
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| Dune sandrock | |
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| Dune lakes | |
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| Intertidal Landforms, Salt Marshes and Mangroves | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Sources of intertidal sediments | |
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| Sandflats, bars and troughs | |
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| Mudflats | |
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| Seagrass beds | |
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| Salt marshes | |
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| Evolution of a salt marsh | |
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| Salt marsh terraces | |
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| Seaward margins of salt marshes | |
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| Salt marsh creeks | |
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| Salt pans | |
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| The Spartina story | |
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| Freshwater swamps | |
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| Mangroves | |
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| Mangroves and intertidal morphology | |
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| Seaward margins of mangroves | |
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| Estuaries and Lagoons | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Rias | |
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| Fiords | |
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| Fiards | |
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| Calanques | |
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| Sharms and sebkhas | |
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| Estuaries | |
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| Evolution of an estuary | |
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| Estuarine channels | |
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| Estuarine sediments | |
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| Tidal deltas and thresholds | |
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| Estuary shores | |
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| Estuarine marshes and swamps | |
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| Coastal lagoons | |
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| Lagoon entrances | |
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| Tides and salinity in lagoons | |
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| Evolution of coastal lagoons | |
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| Rounding and segmentation | |
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| Swamp encroachment | |
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| Lagoon configuration | |
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| Deltas | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Delta components | |
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| Deltaic processes | |
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| The Mississippi delta | |
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| Delta outlines | |
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| Wave-dominated deltas | |
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| Tide-dominated deltas | |
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| Effects of nearshore currents | |
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| Effects of cold climate | |
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| Delta evolution | |
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| Delta shores | |
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| Coral and Algal Reefs | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Coral reefs | |
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| Origin of coral reefs | |
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| Rates of growth | |
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| Fringing reefs | |
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| Barrier reefs | |
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| Atolls | |
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| Emerged coral reefs | |
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| Islands on coral reefs platforms | |
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| Algal and other biogenic reefs | |
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| Future Coasts | |
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| Introduction | |
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| Greenhouse effect and sea level rise | |
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| General effects of a rising sea level | |
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| Effects of a changing climate | |
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| Effects on cliffs and shore platforms | |
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| Effects on beaches, spits and barriers | |
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| Evidence from past marine transgressions | |
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| The future of beaches | |
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| Effects on coastal dunes | |
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| Effects on salt marshes, mangroves and intertidal areas | |
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| Effects on estuaries and lagoons | |
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| Effects on deltaic coasts | |
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| Effects on coral and algal reefs | |
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| Classification of Coastal Landforms | |
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| Types of classification | |
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| Atlantic and Pacific type coasts | |
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| Classification and plate tectonics | |
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| Coasts of submergence and emergence | |
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| Classification based on climate | |
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| Classification based on coastal processes | |
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| Initial and subsequent coasts | |
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| Stable and mobile coasts | |
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| Steep and flat coasts | |
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| Geology in coastal classification | |
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| Advancing and receding coasts | |
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| Composite classifications | |
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| Changing coastlines | |
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| Artificial coastlines | |
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| Progress in coastal geomorphology | |
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| References | |
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| Index | |