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Coastal Geomorphology An Introduction

ISBN-10: 0471899771

ISBN-13: 9780471899778

Edition: 2001

Authors: Eric Bird

List price: $113.00
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Description:

This book gives a comprehensive treatment of coastal evolution and dynamics, providing background for the study of coastal landforms and how and why they are changing, with up to date information, world-wide coverage of examples, numerous illustrations and extensive references to the scientific literature. Coastal Geomorphology: An Introduction gives a systematic approach to the subject of coastal geomorphology, dealing with the shaping of landforms, the changing levels of land and sea, the array of coastal processes that have influenced the shaping of landforms and the changes that are taking place on them. It analyses the causes of erosion and accretion on sectors of the coastline and examines the factors that have contributed to these, preparing the way for management strategies. This book includes discussions on the effects that human activities have had on coasts and their continuing contributions to coastal landform changes. This book is an essential read for undergraduate and graduate students in geomorphology, geography, marine science and coastal management courses, anyone concerned with coastal planning, development and management, and organisations concerned with conservation and use of the coast.
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Book details

List price: $113.00
Copyright year: 2001
Publisher: John Wiley & Sons, Incorporated
Publication date: 11/17/2000
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 344
Size: 7.50" wide x 9.75" long x 1.00" tall
Weight: 1.496
Language: English

Preface and Acknowledgements
List of Figures
List of Tables
Introduction
Coastal geomorphology
Terminology
Ancient coastlines
Coastline morphology
Coastal evolution
Changing coastlines
Coastal Processes
Introduction
Waves
Ocean swell
Storm waves
Nearshore waves
Wave refraction
Wave energy
Breaking waves
Rip currents
Wave currents
Dominant waves
High, moderate and low wave energy coasts
Tides
Tidal currents
Macrotidal, mesotidal and microtidal coasts
Tidal bores
Tide-dominated coasts
Storm surges
Other sea disturbances
Ocean currents
Wind-driven currents
River-mouth currents
Effects of currents
Nearshore water circulation
Wind action
Other processes
Modelling coastal processes
Conclusion
Land and Sea Level Changes
Introduction
Mean sea level
Causes of sea level change
Eustatic movements of sea level
Steric changes
Sedimentation
Tectonic movements
Changes in the ocean basins
Epeirogenic land movements
Orogenic movements
Isostatic movements
Volcanic movements
Glacio-eustatic movements
Human impacts on sea level
Geoidal changes
Changes related to ocean currents
Measuring changes of level
Correlation and dating of former coastlines
Emerged coastlines
Submerged coastlines
Sea level curves
Late Quaternary sea level changes
Modern sea level changes
Tide gauge records
Geodetic surveys
Biological indicators
Recent changes of land and sea level
Future sea level changes
Cliffs and Rocky Shores
Introduction
Cliff morphology
Profiles of cliffs and bluffs
Slope-over-wall profiles
Humid tropical bluffs
Ice cliffs
Cliff dissection
Caves
Blowholes
Gorges
Natural arches
Stacks
Hanging valleys and coastal waterfalls
Hinterland topography
Outlines in plan of cliffed coastlines
Coastal landslides
Cliff recession
Rates of cliff recession
Shore platforms
Processes on rocky shores
Abrasion
Weathering
Solution
Bioerosion
Frost shattering
Induration
Seaward-sloping shore platforms
Structural shore platforms
High tide shore platforms
Low tide shore platforms
Rocky and bouldery shores
Strandflats
Plunging cliffs
Beaches
Introduction
Beach sediments
Evolution of beaches
Provenance of beach sediments
Beaches supplied with fluvial sediment
Beaches supplied from eroding cliffs and foreshores
Beaches supplied with sediment from the sea floor
Shelly and calcareous beaches
Beaches supplied with wind-blown sand
Beaches made or modified by human activities
Beaches of mixed origin
Relict beaches
Weathering of beach material
Beach rock
Nearshore processes
Beach morphology
Beach outlines in plan
Equilibrium beach plans
Beach outlines in profile
Cut and fill
Sweep zone
Beach gradient and sediment size
Upper and lower beach
Beach stratification
Beach berms
Beach cusps
Wind action on beaches
Downwashing
Response to tidal oscillations
Equilibrium beach profiles
Eroding and prograding beach profiles
Beach morphodynamics and beach states
Use of models
Beach compartments
Beach budgets
Tracing beach sediment flow
Lateral grading
Prograding beaches
Beach ridges
Cheniers
Beach lobes
Beach erosion
Submergence and increased wave attack
Diminution of fluvial sediment supply
Reduction in sediment supply from cliffs
Reduction of sand supply from inland dunes
Diminution of sediment supply from the sea floor
Extraction of sand and shingle from the beach
Increased wave energy
Interception of longshore drift
A change in the angle of incidence of waves
Intensification of obliquely-incident wave attack
Increased losses of beach sediment to the backshore
Increased storminess
Attrition of beach material
Erosion due to beach weathering
Erosion because of increased scour by wave reflection
Erosion accompanying migration of beach lobes
Erosion due to a rise in the beach water table
Erosion due to removal of beach material by runoff
Erosion because of diminished tide range
Erosion by driftwood
Erosion following removal of a sea ice fringe
The multiple causes of beach erosion
Effects of artificial structures on beaches
Beach nourishment
Spits and Barriers
Introduction
Spits
Paired spits
Trailing and flying spits
Tombolos
Cuspate spits
Cuspate forelands
Coastal barriers and barrier islands
Coastal Dunes
Introduction
Foredunes
Backshore cliffing of dunes
Parallel dunes
Blowouts and parabolic dunes
Transgressive dunes
Cliff-top dunes
Dunes on shingle
Rates of dune movement
Dune calcarenite
Machair
Coastal dunes in the humid tropics
Older and newer dunes
Dune sandrock
Dune lakes
Intertidal Landforms, Salt Marshes and Mangroves
Introduction
Sources of intertidal sediments
Sandflats, bars and troughs
Mudflats
Seagrass beds
Salt marshes
Evolution of a salt marsh
Salt marsh terraces
Seaward margins of salt marshes
Salt marsh creeks
Salt pans
The Spartina story
Freshwater swamps
Mangroves
Mangroves and intertidal morphology
Seaward margins of mangroves
Estuaries and Lagoons
Introduction
Rias
Fiords
Fiards
Calanques
Sharms and sebkhas
Estuaries
Evolution of an estuary
Estuarine channels
Estuarine sediments
Tidal deltas and thresholds
Estuary shores
Estuarine marshes and swamps
Coastal lagoons
Lagoon entrances
Tides and salinity in lagoons
Evolution of coastal lagoons
Rounding and segmentation
Swamp encroachment
Lagoon configuration
Deltas
Introduction
Delta components
Deltaic processes
The Mississippi delta
Delta outlines
Wave-dominated deltas
Tide-dominated deltas
Effects of nearshore currents
Effects of cold climate
Delta evolution
Delta shores
Coral and Algal Reefs
Introduction
Coral reefs
Origin of coral reefs
Rates of growth
Fringing reefs
Barrier reefs
Atolls
Emerged coral reefs
Islands on coral reefs platforms
Algal and other biogenic reefs
Future Coasts
Introduction
Greenhouse effect and sea level rise
General effects of a rising sea level
Effects of a changing climate
Effects on cliffs and shore platforms
Effects on beaches, spits and barriers
Evidence from past marine transgressions
The future of beaches
Effects on coastal dunes
Effects on salt marshes, mangroves and intertidal areas
Effects on estuaries and lagoons
Effects on deltaic coasts
Effects on coral and algal reefs
Classification of Coastal Landforms
Types of classification
Atlantic and Pacific type coasts
Classification and plate tectonics
Coasts of submergence and emergence
Classification based on climate
Classification based on coastal processes
Initial and subsequent coasts
Stable and mobile coasts
Steep and flat coasts
Geology in coastal classification
Advancing and receding coasts
Composite classifications
Changing coastlines
Artificial coastlines
Progress in coastal geomorphology
References
Index