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| Introduction: �The King of the Rivers of Europe� | |
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| From the Black Forest to the Black Sea | |
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| Settlers and Storytellers: the Danube in Ancient Times | |
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| Division and Disunity | |
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| Trade and Commerce: the River's Lifeblood | |
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| Spreading the Word | |
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| The Rising River: From the Black Forest to Passau | |
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| Through the Black Forest and Swabia | |
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| In the Beginning | |
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| Castles and Monasteries in the Swabian Jura | |
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| Sigmaringen | |
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| Ulm: Spires and Boxes | |
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| Through Bavaria | |
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| From Ulm to Ingolstadt: a Leaping Horse and a Decisive Battle | |
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| Ingolstadt | |
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| Ingolstadt to Regensburg: a Navigable River for the First Time | |
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| Regensburg: Sausages and Spires | |
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| Regensburg to Passau: Myths and Legends in Upper Bavaria | |
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| The Song of the Nibelungs | |
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| Passau: �In all of Germany I never saw a town so beautiful� | |
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| The Blue Danube: Passau to Bratislava | |
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| Through Linz and Upper Austria | |
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| Into Austria | |
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| Linz and Mauthausen: Austria's Nazi Legacy | |
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| Through Vienna and Lower Austria | |
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| �A fierce, impatient and unkindly flood�: the Strudengau Rapids | |
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| Maria Taferl, P�chlarn and Melk | |
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| The Wachau: Heartland of the Austrian Danube | |
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| Approaching Vienna: Stein und Krems and Tulln | |
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| Klosterneuburg: the Monastery Abandoned by the Danube | |
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| Vienna: City of the Blue Danube | |
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| Napoleon on the Danube | |
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| Through the Burgenland to Slovakia | |
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| East from Vienna: the Marchfeld | |
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| Hainburg to Dev�n and Bratislava: Through the Former Iron Curtain | |
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| Into the Balkans: Bratislava to Belgrade | |
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| Bratislava and the Slovak-Hungarian Borderlands | |
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| �East of Vienna, the Orient Begins� | |
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| Bratislava: �a different cast had streamed on stage� | |
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| Beyond Bratislava: the Gabcikovo Dam | |
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| Kom�rom/Kom�rno: Fortress City on the Danube | |
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| Through the Hungarian Uplands | |
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| Esztergom: �a celestial city in a painting� | |
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| The Danube Bend | |
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| V�c | |
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| Szentendre | |
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| Budapest and the Heart of Hungary | |
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| The �Pearl of the Danube� | |
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| Roman and Medieval Budapest | |
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| The Turks in Budapest | |
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| Habsburg Budapest: Expansion and Revolution | |
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| Budapest since 1918: Decadence, Tragedy, Dictatorship and Democracy | |
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| Along the Edge of the Great Hungarian Plain: Budapest to Moh�cs | |
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| Through the Former Yugoslavia | |
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| Europe's Most Recent War Zone | |
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| Moh�cs to Vukovar | |
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| Into Serbia: Vukovar to Belgrade | |
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| Belgrade: �One of the ugliest cities imaginable� | |
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| Gorge Plain and Delta: From Belgrade to the Black Sea | |
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| Eastern Serbia and the Gorges | |
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| Leaving Belgrade: the Great Fortress at Smederevo | |
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| The Iron Gates and Kazan Gorges | |
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| Beneath the Waters: the Submerged Villages and Islands of the Flooded Gorges | |
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| Above the Waters: from Veliko Gradiste to the Iron Gates Barrage | |
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| Drobeta-Turnu Severin, Kladovo, and Trajan's Bridge | |
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| Touching Bulgaria | |
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| East from Drobeta-Turnu Severin to Vidin | |
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| Vidin to Ruse: along the edge of Thrace | |
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| Ruse, Girgiu and Silistra | |
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| Through Eastern Romania | |
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| Silistra to Braila | |
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| The Danube Canal | |
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| Braila and Galati: the Scent of the Sea | |
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| The Danube Navigation Commissions | |
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| East from Galati | |
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| The Delta and the Black Sea | |
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| A Land of Reeds and Marshes | |
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| The Bratul Chilia and Ismail | |
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| The Bratul Sfantu Gheorghe and Halmyris | |
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| The Bratul Sulina and the Black Sea | |
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| Bibliography & Further Reading | |
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| Index of Literary & Historical Names | |
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| Index of Places & Landmarks | |