| |
| |
| Acknowledgement | |
| |
| |
| Glossary | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Human Relationship with Fragrance Linda Harman | |
| |
| |
| |
| The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume David H. Pybus | |
| |
| |
| |
| Early Use of Fragrance | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Age of Chivalry | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Age of Alchemy | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Age of Discovery | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Age of Revolution | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Age of Empire (Nineteenth Century) | |
| |
| |
| |
| Technique | |
| |
| |
| |
| Structured Perfumes, and Use of Synthetics | |
| |
| |
| |
| Industrialisation and 'Massification | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Age of Fashion (Twentieth Century) | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin Charles Sell | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfumes and Odours in Nature | |
| |
| |
| |
| Introduction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Biosynthesis | |
| |
| |
| |
| Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients | |
| |
| |
| |
| Expression | |
| |
| |
| |
| Distillation | |
| |
| |
| |
| Solvent Extraction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients | |
| |
| |
| |
| From Natural to Synthetic | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry Charles Sell | |
| |
| |
| |
| Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenoids | |
| |
| |
| |
| Introduction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Five Key Terpenoids | |
| |
| |
| |
| Feedstocks | |
| |
| |
| |
| Pinene Pyrolysis | |
| |
| |
| |
| Pinane Pyrolysis | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Carroll Reaction | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Claisen Rearrangement | |
| |
| |
| |
| Prenyl Chloride | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Ene Reaction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Elegance, a Four-Step Process | |
| |
| |
| |
| Hemiterpenoids | |
| |
| |
| |
| Acyclic Monoterpenoids | |
| |
| |
| |
| Cyclic Monoterpenes | |
| |
| |
| |
| Menthol | |
| |
| |
| |
| Bicyclic Monoterpenoids | |
| |
| |
| |
| Sesquiterpenoids | |
| |
| |
| |
| Cedarwood | |
| |
| |
| |
| Sandalwood | |
| |
| |
| |
| Diterpenoids | |
| |
| |
| |
| Ambergris | |
| |
| |
| |
| Ionones and Related Compounds | |
| |
| |
| |
| Musks | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene | |
| |
| |
| |
| Conclusions | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Structure of an International Fragrance Company David H. Pybus | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Business-Getting Chain | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Supply Chain | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Perfume Brief David H. Pybus | |
| |
| |
| |
| Brief for Eve-Prepared by Business Scents Ltd | |
| |
| |
| |
| Background | |
| |
| |
| |
| Product Range | |
| |
| |
| |
| General | |
| |
| |
| |
| Fragrance | |
| |
| |
| |
| Timescale | |
| |
| |
| |
| Brief Recipients | |
| |
| |
| |
| Price | |
| |
| |
| |
| Production | |
| |
| |
| |
| Toxicology | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfumer Creation: The Role of the Perfumer Less Small | |
| |
| |
| |
| Soap | |
| |
| |
| |
| Shampoo | |
| |
| |
| |
| Shower and Bath Gel | |
| |
| |
| |
| Antiperspirant | |
| |
| |
| Reference | |
| |
| |
| |
| Measurement of Fragrance Perception Anne Churchill | |
| |
| |
| |
| Introduction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Market Research | |
| |
| |
| |
| Sensory Analysis | |
| |
| |
| |
| Threshold | |
| |
| |
| |
| Intensity | |
| |
| |
| |
| Quality | |
| |
| |
| |
| Qualitative Descriptive Analysis | |
| |
| |
| |
| Odour Profiling | |
| |
| |
| |
| Statistical Techniques | |
| |
| |
| |
| Multidimensional Scaling | |
| |
| |
| |
| Principal Component Analysis | |
| |
| |
| |
| Multisensory Approach | |
| |
| |
| |
| Psychology of Perfume | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Business Scents Brief | |
| |
| |
| |
| Definition of the Appropriate Odour Area | |
| |
| |
| |
| Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics | |
| |
| |
| |
| Creating Fragrances for the Future | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Application of Fragrance Judi Beerling | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Role of the Applications Department | |
| |
| |
| |
| Product Formulations | |
| |
| |
| |
| Fine Fragrance | |
| |
| |
| |
| Vegetable Soap | |
| |
| |
| |
| Aerosol Antiperspirant | |
| |
| |
| |
| Shampoo | |
| |
| |
| |
| Shower and Bath Gel | |
| |
| |
| |
| Stability Testing | |
| |
| |
| |
| Humidity Testing | |
| |
| |
| |
| Light Testing | |
| |
| |
| |
| Assessment and Reporting of Results | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances Steve Meakins | |
| |
| |
| |
| Introduction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Self Regulation | |
| |
| |
| |
| Safety Assessment | |
| |
| |
| |
| Skin Irritation | |
| |
| |
| |
| Skin Sensitisation | |
| |
| |
| |
| Photoeffects | |
| |
| |
| |
| Neurotoxicity | |
| |
| |
| |
| Reproductive Effects | |
| |
| |
| |
| Natural Ingredients | |
| |
| |
| |
| Conclusions | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| Volatility and Substantivity Keith D. Perring | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Ingredient Volatility | |
| |
| |
| |
| Perfume Polarity | |
| |
| |
| |
| Substantivity and Retention | |
| |
| |
| |
| Conclusions | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry Robin Clery | |
| |
| |
| |
| Introduction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Natural Product Analysis | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Traditional Approach | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Headspace Approach | |
| |
| |
| |
| Analytical Techniques used in the Fragrance Industry | |
| |
| |
| |
| Extraction | |
| |
| |
| |
| Gas-Liquid Chromatography | |
| |
| |
| |
| GC Injection systems | |
| |
| |
| |
| GC Columns | |
| |
| |
| |
| GC Detectors | |
| |
| |
| |
| Preparative Liquid Chromatography | |
| |
| |
| |
| Positive Identification | |
| |
| |
| |
| Headspace Collection | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Future | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| Chemoreception Charles Sell | |
| |
| |
| |
| Why have a Sense of Smell? | |
| |
| |
| |
| Measuring Smell | |
| |
| |
| |
| Cell Wall Structure | |
| |
| |
| |
| Proteins Involved in Signal Generation | |
| |
| |
| |
| Anatomy of Smell | |
| |
| |
| |
| Signal Generation | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Combinatorial Nature of Odour Perception | |
| |
| |
| |
| Signal Processing | |
| |
| |
| |
| Implications for Odorant Design | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Search for New Ingredients Karen Jenner | |
| |
| |
| |
| Introduction | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Need | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Search | |
| |
| |
| |
| Clues from Nature | |
| |
| |
| |
| Serendipity | |
| |
| |
| |
| Synthesis of Analogues | |
| |
| |
| |
| Computer-Aided Design | |
| |
| |
| |
| Ligand-Olfactory Receptor Modelling | |
| |
| |
| |
| Structure-Activity Relationships | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Hansch Approach | |
| |
| |
| |
| Pattern Recognition | |
| |
| |
| |
| Conformational Analysis and the Olfactophore Approach | |
| |
| |
| |
| Conformational Analysis on Small Data Sets | |
| |
| |
| |
| Summary | |
| |
| |
| Acknowledgements | |
| |
| |
| References | |
| |
| |
| |
| Buying Fragrance Ingredients and Selling Fragrance Compounds David H. Pybus | |
| |
| |
| |
| Buying | |
| |
| |
| |
| Categorisation of Suppliers and Materials | |
| |
| |
| |
| Supplier Relationships | |
| |
| |
| |
| Nature of Material | |
| |
| |
| |
| Procurement Organisation | |
| |
| |
| |
| Sales and Marketing | |
| |
| |
| |
| The Finale: Brief Submission Les Small | |
| |
| |
| |
| Some of the more Important Natural Fragrance Materials | |
| |
| |
| |
| Useful Addresses | |
| |
| |
| Bibliography | |
| |
| |
| Subject Index | |