Chemistry of Fragrances From Perfumer to Consumer

ISBN-10: 0854048243
ISBN-13: 9780854048243
Edition: 2nd 2007 (Revised)
Authors: Charles S. Sell
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Description: Ever wondered how perfumes are developed? Or why different scents appeal to different people? The Chemistry of Fragrances, 2nd Edition offers answers to these questions, providing a fascinating insight into the perfume industry, from the conception  More...

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Book details

Edition: 2nd
Copyright year: 2007
Publisher: Royal Society of Chemistry, The
Publication date: 11/6/2006
Binding: Hardcover
Pages: 348
Size: 6.25" wide x 9.25" long x 1.00" tall
Weight: 1.628
Language: English

Ever wondered how perfumes are developed? Or why different scents appeal to different people? The Chemistry of Fragrances, 2nd Edition offers answers to these questions, providing a fascinating insight into the perfume industry, from the conception of an idea to the finished product. It discusses the technical, artistic and commercial challenges of the perfume industry in an informative and engaging style, with contributions from leading experts in the field. The book begins with a historical introduction and covers all aspects of the development process - from the customer brief to fragrance production, including: - Ingredients acquisition - Ingredient design and manufacture - Design and analysis of fragrance - Sensory aspects including odour perception - Psychological impact of fragrance - Technical challenges - Safety An updated section on the measurement of fragrance discusses the role of senses in marketing consumer products. This book will appeal to anyone with an interest in the perfumery business and includes an extensive bibliography to enable those interested to explore the field further. It also comes complete with a selection of colour illustrations and a fragranced page.

Acknowledgement
Glossary
The Human Relationship with Fragrance Linda Harman
The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume David H. Pybus
Early Use of Fragrance
The Age of Chivalry
The Age of Alchemy
The Age of Discovery
The Age of Revolution
The Age of Empire (Nineteenth Century)
Technique
Structured Perfumes, and Use of Synthetics
Industrialisation and 'Massification
The Age of Fashion (Twentieth Century)
Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin Charles Sell
Perfumes and Odours in Nature
Introduction
Biosynthesis
Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients
Expression
Distillation
Solvent Extraction
Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients
From Natural to Synthetic
References
Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry Charles Sell
Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenoids
Introduction
Five Key Terpenoids
Feedstocks
Pinene Pyrolysis
Pinane Pyrolysis
The Carroll Reaction
The Claisen Rearrangement
Prenyl Chloride
The Ene Reaction
Elegance, a Four-Step Process
Hemiterpenoids
Acyclic Monoterpenoids
Cyclic Monoterpenes
Menthol
Bicyclic Monoterpenoids
Sesquiterpenoids
Cedarwood
Sandalwood
Diterpenoids
Ambergris
Ionones and Related Compounds
Musks
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone
Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene
Conclusions
References
The Structure of an International Fragrance Company David H. Pybus
The Business-Getting Chain
The Supply Chain
References
The Perfume Brief David H. Pybus
Brief for Eve-Prepared by Business Scents Ltd
Background
Product Range
General
Fragrance
Timescale
Brief Recipients
Price
Production
Toxicology
Perfumer Creation: The Role of the Perfumer Less Small
Soap
Shampoo
Shower and Bath Gel
Antiperspirant
Reference
Measurement of Fragrance Perception Anne Churchill
Introduction
Market Research
Sensory Analysis
Threshold
Intensity
Quality
Qualitative Descriptive Analysis
Odour Profiling
Statistical Techniques
Multidimensional Scaling
Principal Component Analysis
Multisensory Approach
Psychology of Perfume
The Business Scents Brief
Definition of the Appropriate Odour Area
Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics
Creating Fragrances for the Future
References
The Application of Fragrance Judi Beerling
The Role of the Applications Department
Product Formulations
Fine Fragrance
Vegetable Soap
Aerosol Antiperspirant
Shampoo
Shower and Bath Gel
Stability Testing
Humidity Testing
Light Testing
Assessment and Reporting of Results
References
The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances Steve Meakins
Introduction
Self Regulation
Safety Assessment
Skin Irritation
Skin Sensitisation
Photoeffects
Neurotoxicity
Reproductive Effects
Natural Ingredients
Conclusions
References
Volatility and Substantivity Keith D. Perring
Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry
Perfume Ingredient Volatility
Perfume Polarity
Substantivity and Retention
Conclusions
References
Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry Robin Clery
Introduction
Natural Product Analysis
The Traditional Approach
The Headspace Approach
Analytical Techniques used in the Fragrance Industry
Extraction
Gas-Liquid Chromatography
GC Injection systems
GC Columns
GC Detectors
Preparative Liquid Chromatography
Positive Identification
Headspace Collection
The Future
References
Chemoreception Charles Sell
Why have a Sense of Smell?
Measuring Smell
Cell Wall Structure
Proteins Involved in Signal Generation
Anatomy of Smell
Signal Generation
The Combinatorial Nature of Odour Perception
Signal Processing
Implications for Odorant Design
References
The Search for New Ingredients Karen Jenner
Introduction
The Need
The Search
Clues from Nature
Serendipity
Synthesis of Analogues
Computer-Aided Design
Ligand-Olfactory Receptor Modelling
Structure-Activity Relationships
The Hansch Approach
Pattern Recognition
Conformational Analysis and the Olfactophore Approach
Conformational Analysis on Small Data Sets
Summary
Acknowledgements
References
Buying Fragrance Ingredients and Selling Fragrance Compounds David H. Pybus
Buying
Categorisation of Suppliers and Materials
Supplier Relationships
Nature of Material
Procurement Organisation
Sales and Marketing
The Finale: Brief Submission Les Small
Some of the more Important Natural Fragrance Materials
Useful Addresses
Bibliography
Subject Index

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