Climbing Anchors

ISBN-10: 0762723262

ISBN-13: 9780762723263

Edition: 2nd 2006

Authors: John Long, Bob Gaines

List price: $15.95
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Description:

This completely revised and updated edition brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems from the first edition of Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors. Most climbers today learn their craft on artificial climbing walls and on sport routes with fixed protection. Their first efforts to lead on trad routes often come as a rude shock--they find that they haven't the skills and training to safeguard the climb or to set up good belays. They may even lack the experience to distinguish good protection from potentially disastrous poor protection. This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber's complete and authoritative source of information on protection, from fundamental knots to sophisticated rigging and equalizing skills.
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Book details

List price: $15.95
Edition: 2nd
Copyright year: 2006
Publisher: Globe Pequot Press, The
Publication date: 9/1/2006
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 240
Size: 5.75" wide x 9.00" long x 0.75" tall
Weight: 0.748
Language: English

John S. Long is an associate professor in the Schulich School of Education at Nipissing University.

Bob Gaines,an AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Certified Rock Guide, is the coauthor ofClimbing AnchorsandRock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks(both FalconGuides), and is the owner/director of Vertical Adventures Climbing School, based at Joshua Tree National Park, California. He lives in Joshua Tree and Newport Beach, California.

Acknowledgments
Introduction
Simple Anchors
Natural Anchors
Trees
Shrubs and Bushes
Boulders and Blocks
Horns
Threading Tunnels
Chockstones
Passive Chocks
Tapers
Oppositional Nuts
Offset Tapers
Micro-Tapers (Micro-Nuts)
All the Rest
Removing Passive Chocks
Mechanical Chocks
Spring-Loaded Camming Devices (SLCDs)
Sliding Nuts
Summary
Fixed Gear
Pitons
Bolts
Cold Shuts
Webbing (Sling Material)
Cordage
Fall Forces and the Jesus Nut
Static and Dynamic Forces
Dynamic Forces in a Fall
The Top Piece
Conclusion
Judging the Direction of Pull
Direction of Pull and Anchor Building
Swing
Direction of Pull on Primary Placements
Knots for Anchoring
Ring Bend
Double Fisherman's
Overhand on a Bight and Figure Eight on a Bight
Clove Hitch
Bowline-on-a-Bight
Munter Hitch
Knot Strength
Anchor Systems
SRENE Anchors
Redundancy: The Ongoing Discussion
Belay Anchors
Building Belay Anchors-A Step-by-Step Process
Static and Automatic Equalization Systems
Cordelettes
The Sliding X
The Equalette
Composite Anchors: Cordelette, Sliding X and Equalette
What's Best for Beginners?
Upward Oppositional Anchors
Belay Positions
Anchor Test Results
Other Anchors
Toprope Anchors
Rappel Anchors
Bivouac Anchors
Big Wall Anchors
Review
Conclusion
Appendix
Index
About the Authors
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