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| Acknowledgments | |
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| Introduction | |
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| The Messages of Jewelry: Why We Wear Ornaments | |
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| The Origins of Jewelry: Satisfying psychic and physical needs | |
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| The uses and values placed on jewelry | |
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| The jewel and the jeweler | |
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| Jewelry Forms in Relation to the Body: Design and construction conditioned by anatomy | |
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| Basic forms | |
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| Functional considerations in jewelry concepts | |
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| Common jewel-supporting systems | |
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| The Means to Creation: Working Environment, Facilities, and Implements | |
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| The Workshop: Organizing the working areas | |
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| The basic work areas | |
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| General workshop requirements | |
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| Tools: Instruments of technique | |
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| The hand: Provider of guidance and power | |
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| Tool categories according to conceptual work principles | |
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| Metal, the Jewel's Raw Material: Its Origin, Quality Control, and Variety | |
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| Metal: Characteristics and classifications | |
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| Metal characteristics in general | |
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| Metal groups | |
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| Gold Mining: Disgorging one of Earth's treasures | |
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| Quality Control of Precious Metals: Insurance against fraud | |
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| Making an ingot of precious metal | |
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| Lowering or raising gold and silver quality | |
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| The hallmark: British quality control of precious metals | |
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| The touchstone: Approximating quality | |
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| Cupellation: A method of purifying and assaying precious metals | |
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| Titration for silver content | |
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| Recovery and refinement of precious metal | |
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| Precipitation and recovery of silver from spent acid solutions | |
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| Purchasing precious metals | |
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| Nonferrous Metals Used in Jewelry Making | |
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| Copper | |
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| Nickel | |
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| Tin | |
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| Zinc | |
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| Lead | |
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| Refractory Metals Used in Jewelry | |
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| Titanium | |
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| Tantalum and niobium (columbium): Their new use in jewelry | |
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| Ferrous Metals Used in Jewelry | |
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| Iron | |
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| Stainless steel | |
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| Basic Techniques: Processing Sheet Metal Without Deformation | |
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| The Rolling Mill: Changing metal dimensions by tangential compression | |
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| Rolling sheet metal | |
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| Rolling wire | |
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| Some rolling techniques | |
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| Texture and pattern transfer by rolling | |
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| Rolling defects | |
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| The care of rolling mills | |
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| Measuring and Marking: Tools used to achieve dimensional accuracy | |
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| Measuring tools | |
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| Marking tools | |
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| Design Transfer to Metal: Materials and methods | |
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| Cutting Sheet Metal: Dividing metal from mass by shearing action | |
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| Shearing | |
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| Sawing: Severing or contour shaping metal by gradual groove removal | |
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| The jeweler's saw frame | |
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| Sawing practice | |
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| Sawing problems and solutions | |
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| The hacksaw | |
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| Cold Bending Sheet Metal: Changing direction without springback | |
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| Methods of bending | |
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| Bend types | |
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| Piercing: Penetrating metal laterally or perpendicularly | |
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| Piercing by sawing: Enclosed negative shapes | |
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| Sawline piercing: Kerf graphics | |
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| Piercing by percussion penetration | |
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| Piercing by boring | |
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| Pierced work possibilities | |
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| Files and Filing: Removing metal by attrition | |
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| File manufacture | |
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| General classification of file types | |
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| File family groups | |
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| Swiss pattern, escapement, and needle file sectional shapes | |
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| The uses of files | |
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| Rotary files, burs, and abrasive points | |
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| Carbide burs | |
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| Diamond dental rotary cutting instruments: Shank dimensions | |
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| Milling: Rotary grinding metal for peripheral or face removal | |
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| Main types of milling actions | |
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| Diamond milling | |
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| Sheet Metal: Forming by Deformation Techniques | |
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| Sheet Metal Structural Distortion: Three-dimensional form through deformation | |
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| Doming: Stretch punching a hemisphere | |
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| Repoussage and Chasing: Free punching relief and intaglio forms | |
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| Repoussage and chasing work surfaces | |
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| Punches in general | |
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| Repousse work and chasing punches | |
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| The chasing and repousse work hammer | |
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| Metals used for repoussage | |
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| The repoussage and chasing process | |
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| Margaret Laws makes a silver vest of relief-modeled forms | |
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| Stamping: Impressing, blanking, or embossing by impact pressure | |
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| Stamping concepts | |
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| Punch and die stamping by hand methods | |
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| Stamping with power machines | |
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| Die stamping with a drop hammer | |
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| George Paul van Duinwyk makes a stamped pendant-necklace | |
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| Open forging: Free use of the drop hammer | |
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| Wire: The Uses of Drawn or Extruded Flexible Filaments | |
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| Wire: Manipulating line into shape and dimension | |
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| The drawplate and drawtongs | |
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| Wire gauges: Wire measurement | |
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| Wire manufacture by hand | |
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| Industrial wire drawing | |
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| Profiled wire made with a drawswage | |
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| Cutting wire | |
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| Using wire without changing its sectional shape: Shaping and bending | |
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| Pliers | |
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| Spiral making | |
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| Twisted wire | |
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| Altering the shape or surface of wire | |
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| Filigree: A traditional wire technique of captured air | |
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| Filigree structural types | |
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| Filigree constructional concepts | |
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| Basic filigree wire uses | |
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| Filigree construction | |
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| Gold filigree: The Oaxaca, Mexico, method | |
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| Fausto Vargas Ramirez makes a filigree earring | |
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| Chains: Integrating interlinked, interlooped, flexible systems | |
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| The link: The chain unit | |
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| General chain types | |
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| Making plain link chain | |
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| Commercial chain | |
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| Single loop-in-loop chain making | |
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| Multiple loop-in-loop chain making | |
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| Chuck Evans shows the technique of interlocking deformed links | |
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| Chain couplings | |
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| Chain Mail: A unit system of intertextured construction | |
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| Chain mail construction | |
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| Mail and plates | |
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| Making chain mail links and plates | |
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| David LaPlantz makes a chain mail necklace | |
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| Wire and Strip in Interworked Processes: Using concepts employed with fibrous materials | |
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| Wire suitability to process | |
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| Metal qualities in relation to interworked processes | |
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| Classification of fibercraft techniques | |
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| Finger-worked processes | |
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| Hand-with-hand-tool-worked processes | |
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| Hand- or mechanism-worked weaving processes | |
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| Forging: Fabrication by percussion to move metal mass | |
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| Forging and heat treating tool steels | |
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| Tools used in the forging process | |
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| Basic forging operations | |
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| Methods of joining forged parts | |
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| Finishing a forged metal surface | |
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| Forging in action | |
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| Albert Paley makes a forged brooch | |
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| Tubing: The Uses of Fistular Forms | |
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| The Tube: Hollow, uniform, seamless, or seamed | |
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| Seamless tube manufacture by extrusion | |
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| The uses of tubing in jewelry making | |
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| Drawing seamed tubing | |
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| Seamed and seamless tube forming with core wire and mandrels | |
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| Reshaping the sectional form of seamless tubing | |
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| Richard Mawdsley draws round tubing to a hexagonal section | |
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| Tube shaping | |
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| Ornamental tube use in jewelry | |
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| Richard Mawdsley constructs a brooch mainly with tubing | |
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| Tapered Tubing: Transmuting flat sheet into coniforms | |
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| Tapered tube fabrication | |
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| Marcia Lewis makes a neckpiece using tapered tubing | |
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| Cores for shaping large-diameter tubes | |
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| Surface Ornament Without Heat: Metal Removal Techniques | |
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| Engraving: Forward-pressure linear metal removal | |
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| The uses of engraving on jewelry | |
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| Engraving tools and accessories | |
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| Preparing the workpiece for engraving | |
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| Holding and using a graver | |
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| Engraving practice | |
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| Ilse Immich engraves a silver pendant | |
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| Scoring: Backward-pressure linear metal removal | |
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| Decorative and functional purposes of scored lines | |
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| Tools for scoring | |
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| Decorative scoring of flat surfaces | |
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| Functional scoring | |
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| Chip Carving: Metal volume removal from mass with chisels | |
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| Historic chip carving: Kerbschnitt | |
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| Contemporary chip carving | |
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| Chip carving with chisels | |
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| Gene Pijanowski investigates chisel-cut textures | |
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| Metal Inlay: Excavation succeeded by insertion techniques | |
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| Japanese inlay work (hon zogan) | |
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| Metals used for inlay | |
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| Pitch: The traditional ground metal holding surface | |
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| The inlay tools | |
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| Chisels in general | |
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| The Japanese inlay process | |
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| Hiroko Sato Pijanowski inlays a pendant | |
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| Variations of inlay | |
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| The Acid Etching of Metal: Selective metal removal by chemical action | |
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| The uses of etching acids and processes | |
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| Materials used in the metal etching process | |
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| The etching process | |
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| Mary Ann Scherr relief etches a pendant | |
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| Electrochemical anodic etching | |
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| Stencil etching metal sheet using light-sensitized gelatin | |
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| Photomechanical one- or two-surface etch piercing | |
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| Halftone photoetching on metal: Graduated tone photoreproduction | |
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| Surface Ornament with Heat: Metal Fusion Techniques | |
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| Reticulation: Samorodok, or the self-born technique of fusion texturing | |
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| Metals used for reticulation | |
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| The theory of reticulation | |
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| Reticulating silver alloy | |
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| Reticulating sheet metal | |
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| Gene Pijanowski explores reticulation possibilities | |
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| Variations in reticulated effects | |
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| Reticulating preformed shapes | |
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| Fusing Metal: Using heat to plastically form metal | |
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| Shot making: Forming a metal ball by total fusion | |
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| Fusion forming a ball at a wire end | |
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| Fusing wire, sheet, and waste metal forms | |
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| Fused textures | |
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| Micro-welding | |
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| Hot modeling: Tool shaping fused metal | |
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| Rita Greer hot models an owl brooch | |
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| Hot pressure molding small forms | |
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| Fusion inlay | |
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| Granulation: Fusion weld bonding ornamental units | |
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| The fusion weld bond: Theory | |
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| Joining granule to base: Chemical and thermal action on copper and binder | |
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| Basic granule arrangement and growth pattern systems | |
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| Gold granulation: Practice | |
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| John Paul Miller illustrates one granulation method while making a pendant/brooch | |
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| Metal Lamination Fabrication: Bonding and patterning multi-metal composites | |
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| Damask steel: Pattern in cast crucible steel or fabricated laminates | |
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| Basic lamination fabrication systems: Structural concepts used for pattern development | |
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| Postlamination treatments | |
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| Mokume Gane: A Japanese fusion-layered patterned laminate | |
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| The metals used for a nonferrous mokume laminate | |
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| Creating a nonferrous mokume gane: Horizontal lamination | |
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| Preparing a nonferrous mokume laminate: Wet bonding by solder fusion | |
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| Preparing a nonferrous mokume laminate: Diffusion weld bonding method | |
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| Creating a mokume face pattern: Horizontal lamination | |
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| Mokume parquetry: Mosaic lamination | |
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| Spiral mokume: Vertical strip lamination | |
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| Mokume wire laminates: Straight and twist lamination | |
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| Miscellaneous processing of finished mokume laminates | |
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| Quality stamping of laminates | |
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| Niello: A fusion-inlaid contrast alloy | |
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| The niello composition | |
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| Preparing the parent metal for niello | |
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| Preparing the niello alloy: The first melt of the compound | |
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| Applying the niello powder | |
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| Niello fusion: The second melt of the compound | |
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| Finishing the nielloed surface | |
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| Repairing nielloed work: The third melt of the compound | |
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| Fabrication: Building Fragments Into Units | |
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| Soldering: Joining fabricated parts by intermediary metal alloy fusion | |
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| Solders for precious metals and their alloys | |
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| Basic types of joints | |
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| Soldering jigs | |
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| Refractory materials used for jigs and soldering surfaces | |
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| Fluxes used for silver or hard soldering | |
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| Presoldering operations: General recommendations | |
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| Burning fuels: The energy source of heat | |
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| The soldering operation | |
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| The three stages of a soldering cycle | |
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| Postsoldering operations | |
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| Soft soldering | |
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| Screws, Bolts and Nuts, and Screw Joints: Mechanical cold fabrication by torsion-pressure holding systems | |
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| Screws | |
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| Bolts | |
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| Nuts | |
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| Construction | |
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| Making a screw or bolt | |
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| Rivets and Riveting: A cold percussion closed pressure joining system | |
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| Rivet conditions used in jewelry | |
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| Rivet head shapes | |
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| Rivet setting | |
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| Nilda C. Fernandez Getty utilizes rivets on a pendant | |
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| The Lathe and Machined Jewelry: Rotational fabrication systems | |
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| The primitive manually powered lathe | |
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| Basic contemporary lathe categories | |
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| Lathe types | |
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| Lubrication of the lathe | |
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| Workpiece materials | |
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| Manual tooling and manual lathe tools | |
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| Mechanical tooling and mechanical lathe tools | |
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| Safety precautions | |
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| Primary lathe operations: External cuts or feeds | |
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| Secondary lathe operations | |
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| Machining jewelry | |
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| Gary S. Griffin shows the use of fixed tool lathe techniques | |
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| Plastics in Jewelry: Fabrication using synthetic solids and liquids | |
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| Basic plastic types: Thermoplastics and thermosetting plastics | |
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| Manufacture of plastics | |
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| Plastics in solid form used in jewelry | |
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| David Keens fabricates a brooch using plastics shaped by various methods | |
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| Laminating sheet plastics | |
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| Plastics in liquid resin form | |
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| Casting polyester resin | |
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| Rodolfo R. Azaro uses a silicone rubber mold | |
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| Casting: Methods of Giving Form to Molten Metal | |
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| Gravity Pour Casting: Exploiting Earth's centripetal force | |
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| The development of casting technology | |
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| Gravity pouring metal | |
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| Cuttlebone casting: Creating the mold cavity by pressure | |
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| Direct carving of a cuttlebone mold cavity | |
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| Alice Shannon cuttlebone casts a pendant | |
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| Lost Wax Casting: Replacing a mold-voided temporary model with metal | |
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| Lost wax investment casting | |
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| Wax composition for investment casting | |
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| Types of wax | |
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| Forms of wax | |
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| Non-wax model materials | |
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| Wax-manipulating tools and materials | |
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| Preparing the wax model | |
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| Wax-in-wax inlay | |
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| Thomas Gentille forms a rigid bracelet exploiting wax characteristics | |
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| Preparing a wax model for a stone setting | |
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| Centrifugal Casting: Flinging molten metal from a rotating center outward into a single-use investment plaster mold | |
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| Spruing the wax model | |
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| Determining the amount of metal needed for a casting | |
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| Mounting the model on the pouring gate former | |
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| Painting the model with a wetting agent | |
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| The investment plaster composition | |
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| The burnout: Losing or eliminating the wax | |
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| The centrifugal casting hand sling | |
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| The centrifugal machine | |
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| Preparing the casting metal | |
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| Casting metal on the centrifuge | |
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| The shakeout: Freeing the casting from the investment | |
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| Cleaning the casting: Fettling | |
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| Finishing the casting | |
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| Porosity: A major casting fault and its causes | |
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| Centrifugal casting: Practice | |
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| Lynda Watson-Abbott uses an intaglio clay mold to form a wax relief model for casting | |
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| Casting metal on metal: Ganga-Jumna | |
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| Pressure casting | |
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| Pressure and vacuum casting | |
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| Vacuum assist casting | |
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| Rubber Mold Wax Injection: Duplicating a master model with a reusable flexible mold | |
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| Making the master model | |
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| Making a two-part mold with a separator | |
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| Making a one-piece rubber mold without a separator | |
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| Injection waxes | |
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| The wax injector machine | |
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| Making a wax-injected replica | |
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| Cold rubber mold making | |
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| Using transparent plastic mold making compounds | |
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| Making a rubber mold for use in wax injection | |
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| Bjorn Weckstrom designed production brooch | |
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| Natural Materials in Jewelry: Using Nature's Valued Nonmetals | |
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| Organic Materials Used in Jewelry: Employing products of formerly living organisms | |
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| Ivory | |
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| Bone | |
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| Teeth | |
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| Tortoiseshell and horn | |
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| Claws | |
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| Shell cameos | |
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| Coral | |
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| Amber | |
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| Mother of pearl: Nacre | |
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| Pearls | |
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| Drilling and mounting pearls | |
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| Methods used by K. Mikimoto and Co. Ltd., Tokyo, Japan | |
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| Feathers in jewelry | |
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| Stones and their Setting: Inorganic Minerals Employed in Jewelry | |
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| Stones: Selected fragments of terrestrial bounty | |
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| Precious, semiprecious, and synthetic stones | |
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| The lapidary art: Stone shaping and polishing | |
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| Tumbling: Mechanical shaping and polishing stones | |
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| Gemstone carving and engraving: The glyptic art | |
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| Stone mosaics in jewelry | |
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| Cabochon-cut stones | |
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| Bezel setting a cabochon stone | |
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| Faceted stones | |
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| Composite stones | |
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| Gemstone substitutes | |
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| Setting a faceted stone | |
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| Metal Finishing: Achieving Desired Surface Appearance | |
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| Metal Finishing Techniques: Manual and mechanical | |
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| Types of soil on metals | |
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| Cleaning solution finishing techniques | |
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| Hand and mechanical finishing techniques | |
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| Hand polishing and buffing | |
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| Mechanical finishing of metal surfaces | |
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| Abrasives | |
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| Polishing and buffing compositions | |
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| Types of finish on metals | |
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| Polishing and buffing wheels in action | |
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| Flexible shaft equipment and accessories | |
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| Respirators: Protection against particle and gas inhalation | |
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| Metallic Coating Techniques: Changing the Base Metal's Surface Appearance | |
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| Cold Gilding with Metal Leaf: Mechanical application of precious metals | |
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| Leaf metal | |
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| Gold leaf production | |
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| Traditional techniques as modified today | |
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| Mechanical surface gilding | |
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| Mercury Amalgam Gilding: Depositing precious metal by heat | |
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| Mercury | |
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| Amalgams | |
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| Preparing a gold-mercury amalgam for gilding | |
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| Walter Soellner devises a closed venting system | |
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| Shakudo: A favored Japanese copper alloy | |
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| Kinkeshi: A Japanese amalgam gilding method | |
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| Mitsuko Kambe Soellner parcel gilds a shakudo pendant | |
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| Gilding puddle-bonded solder on steel | |
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| Walter Soellner parcel gilds a steel belt buckle | |
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| Techniques in the use of precious metal amalgams | |
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| Metallic Buildup: Electrolytic Molecular Creation of Surface and Form | |
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| Electroplating: Depositing metals through electrolytic mediums | |
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| Reasons for electroplating | |
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| Principal properties of plated coatings | |
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| Factors influencing electroplated results | |
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| Immersion or "dip" plating | |
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| Brush plating | |
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| Electroplating and electroforming equipment and conditions | |
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| A typical cyanide gold plating process cycle | |
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| Plating formulas | |
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| Electroforming: Synthesizing form and texture by electrochemistry | |
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| Creating the mandrel: Preliminary work prior to electroforming | |
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| Preparing mandrels for electroforming | |
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| The electroforming process | |
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| Acrylic autoclave casting and electroforming a brooch | |
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| Stanley Lechtzin creatively uses two industrial processes | |
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| Photoelectroforming: Using light to impart an image to metal and to create form | |
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| The photoelectroforming process sequence | |
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| Electroplating using the photoresist stencil | |
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| Photoelectroforming: Stripped or adhesive electroforms | |
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| Coloring Metals: Achieving Patinas Through Heat, Chemicals, and Electrolysis | |
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| Metal Coloring: Broadening the basic color range of metals | |
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| Coloring processes | |
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| Postcoloring treatments | |
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| Anodizing Metals: Electrochemical conversion coating and dye coloring | |
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| Preanodizing treatment and metal surface preparation | |
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| Anodizing aluminum: Preparing the oxide coating | |
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| Dye coloring anodized aluminum objects | |
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| Titanium Coloring: Heat and anodic oxidizing methods | |
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| Titanium surface preparation before coloring | |
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| Titanium direct heat treatment coloring | |
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| Titanium overall anodizing: Coloring by electrochemical immersion | |
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| Titanium localized anodizing: Selective area coloring | |
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| Maintenance and protective coatings on titanium oxide films | |
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| Standard Weights, Measures, and Tables | |
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| Abbreviations Used in Weights, Measures, and Other Areas | |
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| Linear Measurements | |
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| Length | |
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| Thickness | |
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| Area or surface | |
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| Measures of Weight and Mass | |
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| Weight Measurements | |
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| Conversions of weight and mass | |
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| Capacity: Liquids | |
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| Capacity measurements | |
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| Conversions of liquid measures of capacity | |
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| Temperature | |
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| Time and Speed | |
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| Time measurements | |
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| Speed measurements | |
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| Glossaries | |
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| Visual Glossary: Geometric and morphic shapes, forms, and concepts | |
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| Glossary: Forms of Jewelry | |
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| Glossary: Jewelry Findings | |
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| Soldering jewelry findings | |
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| The hinge | |
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| The spring | |
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| Bibliographies | |
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| Historic Jewelry | |
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| Jewelry Technology | |
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| Lapidary; Mineralogy; and Gemology | |
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| Exhibition Catalogs and Handbooks on Jewelry | |
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| Periodicals: Jewelry | |
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| Periodicals: Lapidary | |
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| Sources of Tools, Supplies, and Services | |
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| United States of America | |
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| United Kingdom | |
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| Index | |